Are Your Ready To Go Hands-Free?
It's obvious that drivers aren't just going to hang up and drive in California and Washington come July 1, but there are many bluetooth hands-free options available for talking legally and driving. The simplest and cheapest option is to use a speakerphone if your phone has one, or a wired earpiece. But both of these options have some disadvantages. With a speakerphone, it might be hard for the person on the other end to hear you over road and wind noise, and wired earpieces can be disturbing while driving. Below are more options to consider.
Bluetooth Stereos
Aftermarket car audio manufacturers started providing add-on Bluetooth adapters for their head units a few years back, but many now sell radios with the technology built in. So if you are upgrading your car stereo, consider one with built-in Bluetooth capability. The Pioneer's DEH-P700BT, which can pair with up to three different phones, is a great example of that.
See also: MTX
The advancements being made for getting the maximum output out of your speakers is to the peak. The subwoofers, the component or full-range systems and especially enclosure are here to bring out the most out of your stereo system fitted in the car.
The component speakers that have separate tweeters, crossovers etc giving each part of your speaker to play to its fullest while full-range speakers are easy to install and not all bad. The subwoofers that are responsible for the bass production while enclosures that play dually in the favor of your speakers. Firstly, to avoid any unwanted noise and secondly to keep your speakers away from dirt and dust.
All the equipment installed in your car to play tracks through your stereo system is individually important. Component speakers or full-range speakers are there in your car to play your favorite tracks while doing justice to all the tunes. Naturally, the more you spend the more you are going to get a great result while there are some tips and tricks that can boost up sound production of your speakers at the same time as subwoofers are there to emphasis on bass. Baffles and foam placed between your speakers has great importance as well as they make sure the body of the car and speakers to not bump into each other all the time and producing noises that will be irritating to the ears. Enclosures that are box shaped to place your speaker’s in. the main function of these enclosures is to produce sound that is accurate and tight while they keep your speakers safe from dirt, prolonging their life.
The two kinds of enclosures that can be found in the market are sealed and ported enclosures. Like the name suggests, sealed enclosures are air tight making sure no air leaves or enters the box while ported enclosures have holes in front of the box to equalize pressure within and outside the box. This enclosure may increase the efficiency but the sound production is less accurate and tight than the sealed enclosure. The only thing that matter is that the different manufacturing of these enclosures do really make a difference in the sound production. If you want an enclosure for your speakers then Qlogic car audio enclosures is the best. Their carpeting around the box makes sure it keeps your speakers away from dirt while the box itself maximizes the productivity level. Now keeping in mind the importance and role played by the enclosures, these things come with the speakers themselves although you can pick from one of the types mentioned above according to your own taste and requirement. Sealed enclosures are actually easier to make yourself and produce sound that it should while ported are way complicated and do not have more fans. Qlogic also offers every other car audio accessories to jazz up your stereo system.
The thing that attracts every customer to purchase Qlogic car audio equipment is as they are way much cheaper with warranty and result that will make you its fan. The shipping for this product is very cheap than the rest of the electronic devices. The carpeting of Qlogic looks like they are made not just to play but to look good as well. The stylish styles and boxes will dazzle up your car interior as well. You can purchase this product from the links listed below.
http://www.qlogicenclosures.com/
http://www.carstereoworld.com/
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/
When we first get a sub for our car a person has multiple choices to choose from. Starting with the basic queries which are how many subs you want and what will be their sizes that go perfectly with your amplifiers. It is necessary to pick subs and amps that are completely compatible with each other otherwise clash between one of them will either decrease the life of them or will not let them work at all. If you already have purchased either one of the subs or amps then Internet is the best way to find its compatible amp or sub respectively. Otherwise, websites like mtx.com have a complete chart that will suggest which amp is compatible and best for a particular sub.
Now the above mentioned combinations were the basics and common one. You can look for more combinations if you want to experiment and bring the most out of your amps and subs. Only remember a little browsing before buying never goes to waste
Compatibility of amps and subs are very important otherwise the clash will either take both of the devices down or will unable to play either one of them. The subs and amps can be picked out at the same time to avoid any incompatibility between them but if you already have one of them at home then browse a little on Internet to find out which one of the other best suits it.
In subs, you have two main choices which are either single voice coil and dual voice coil that gives you option for more wiring. Therefore this result in excellent performance and incredible power handling, exceptions excluded.
In the purchasing of an amplifier the most and the only thing important is to choose how much amount of power you need for your subwoofers. Once you have decided that you can get one that fits the compatibility factor as well as your requirement. A mono amplifier or a two-channel amplifier is the choices in this category though. The four common types of combinations for subwoofers are discussed further.
The bright side of each of these combinations will be kept in mind while choosing the right type of amp for it.
Single 4-ohm Voice coil sub:
As the single voice coil sub has less wiring therefore they are compact, simple and cheaper. They do not take too much room with a great result. This voice coil sub is perfectly compatible with a two-channel amp as they work fine with 4-ohms. Make sure you do not use a mono amp here as they are best well-suited with less than 4-ohms.
One 4-ohm dual voice coil sub:
Dual voice coils as mentioned earlier can be wired in multiple ways making it easier for you which also results in great performance and power handling. Most of the dual voice coil subs are compact too. Mono amps which are built for lower impedance usage and most power production are ideal for this type of voice coil sub.
Two 4-ohm single voice coil subs:
For producing accurate and tight bass you can get two subwoofers to thump harder. This may take up more room but it depends on your priorities – more bass or trunk space? Mono amps are perfect for this category as more power and performance is expected from them.
Two 4-ohm dual voice coil subs:
Again dual voice coil subs provide multiple wiring that brings us to flexibility and convenience. Two-channel amp is again the right choice for here resulting in powerful bass.
Now the above mentioned combinations were the basics and common one. You can look for more combinations if you want to experiment and bring the most out of your amps and subs. Only remember a little browsing before buying never goes to waste
Satellite radio represents the newest and best technology for receiving music signals. This simple guide will enable you to install a satellite radio receiver in your car.
There are several different types of satellite radio receivers available. This guide will cover the basics of installing plug and play tuners as well as hardwired in-car tuners. Plug and play tuners are units that mount on the dashboard of the vehicle. They typically come with one or more devices to connect the tuner to the stereo, as well as a cigarette lighter adapter and a mounting bracket. In-car tuners are usually rectangular boxes that will be controlled by the head unit and powered by the car power supply.
Plug and Play Tuners
- Step 1- Install the mounting bracket. Select a location that does not obstruct the driver’s view of the console or the road. The bracket should also be placed within arm’s length of the driver’s seat. To mount the bracket to the dash, first clean off the spot with alcohol wipes. Wait for this to dry, then remove the adhesive backing from the bracket and press firmly onto the dash for at least 30 seconds. Wait at least an hour before applying any weight to the bracket. The bracket can then be reinforced with screws or bolts if needed. Once the bracket is in place, slide the radio unit in place.
- Step 2- Connect the unit to the stereo. If your stereo has an auxiliary in port, use the supplied adaptor to connect the unit directly to this port. If you plan on using a cassette adapter, connection is as simple as putting the cassette into the stereo. If you choose to use an FM modulator, set both the modulator and the head unit to the same frequency.
- Step 3- Connect the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive backing, use the same process as mounting the bracket. If the antenna is magnetic, simply place it on the roof of the car. The optimal placement for the antenna is the highest point on the car. Run the antenna wires through one of the door seals, but make sure the cord will not be damaged by the normal operation of the door. Once the cord is inside the car, run it beneath the carpet all the way up to the satellite tuner and plug it in.
- Step 4- Connect the unit to a power source. This is usually done by way of a cigarette lighter adapter. If you plan on hardwiring the power line, use crimps and appropriate fuses to make a good connection to a 12v switched power line.
- Step 5- Activate the satellite radio. This can usually be done online or over the phone. You will need the activation code for the radio. Once the radio is activated, it will function normally.
Head unit controlled Satellite radio
- Step 1- Mount the tuner box. Select a location that will be out-of the way, and easy accessible for wiring purposes. This is usually either in the trunk or under one of the rear seats. Use the included hardware to bolt the box into something solid. Be wary of puncturing floor panels, and be aware of what you are drilling into. Do not place the unit beneath any carpeting.
- Step 2- Wire the power lines for the box. Before you do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the car battery. Find a 12v line, either switched or non-switched, that you are able to tap into. It is best to use either the head unit power source or the cigarette lighter power source. To split the line, clip the existing cable at the desired location and crimp the three lines back together. Fuse the line before and after the split. Run the power cable beneath the carpet back to the tuner box and plug it in.
- Step 3- Hook the tuner box to the stereo. The unit should come with two cables: an RCA patch cable and a bus controller cable. Plug both of these cables into their respective ports in the tuner box and run them up to the head unit. Plug them into the ports in the back of the head unit.
- Step 4- Mount the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive mount, first clean the area you intend to mount it on, then remove the adhesive backing and press firmly for at least 30 seconds. In the case of a magnetic mount antenna simply place it where you want it. The best mounting location is the highest point on the car. Be sure the antenna is not obstructed by any part of the car. Run the wires into the car through a door seal, then underneath the carpet until you reach the tuner box. Plug both the ground (terra) and satellite antenna cables into the unit.
- Step 5- Activate the unit by following the instructions provided. You will need the activation or identification numbers for the unit, so write these down before you call.
This article explains how to remove an old car stereo and install a new one with a CD changer.
Before you get excited and try to jam that brand new CD player into your dash, there’s some work that needs to be done. First things first; before going any further, remove the negative cable from your battery. This will keep you safe as you are messing around with the wires.
Next, you’ve got to remove your old stereo. This often requires manufacturer’s tools. Consult the old manual for removal instructions. Once the head unit is out, you will see a cage bracket that held the stereo into the dash. This needs to come out. It should be held in either by screws or metal teeth that are bent to hook into the dash piece. If this is the case, simply take a screwdriver and some pliers and bend back the teeth that are sticking into the dash. The cage should slide right out.
Inside the dash you’ll find a bundle of wires connected to a plastic connector. This is your car’s wiring harness. Unfortunately, it will not fit your stereo yet. However, in the new box, you should have a similar looking piece that fits the back of your new head unit. Most of the wires coming out of this stereo harness will eventually match a wire in the car harness. However, at this point we need to match them up. There are two ways you can do this. Preferably, you can pick up an adapter (available at many retail stores) that will clip into the car harness and get crimped onto the stereo wires. If you are unable to get one of these adapters, never fear, you can simply cut the plastic car harness piece off. Avoid this if possible, as the harness wires are not very long, and it will mean you have to crimp them with your hands in the dashboard.
Now, find the wiring information for your old stereo. It should be in the owners manual, but if not, you can find it online. Compare this with the wiring information for your new stereo. There should be listings by wire color and what the wire is connected to. On the wires coming out of your dash and the back of the stereo you should have at least: four pairs of speaker wires, one always-on power wire, and one ground wire. Most modern cars and stereos also have a switched power wire that will turn the stereo off when the ignition goes off. Other wires you might encounter are: an amplifier remote coming out of the stereo, a power antenna control also coming out of the stereo, or possibly a cellular phone control wire coming from the car or the stereo. Besides the wires in the harnesses, there should be a thick antenna cable. Now is a good time to check to see if you need an adapter to make the antenna fit the stereo.
If you’re lucky, the colors of the wires coming out of your stereo and out of the car harness will match up, If this is the case, all you’ll have to do is match the a red always on power wire with a red power wire, black with black, and so on. However, it rarely works out this neatly, so be careful you get the wires right. I would suggest temporarily taping them together just so you can get them all sorted out before you actually connect anything. Now, to actually link them, you need crimps (either red or blue butt-splice or closed-end crimps; wire-nuts will not do here), a crimping tool, and a wire stripper. Use the stripper to take a half-inch of insulation off each of the wires. If you are using butt splice crimps, simply stick the stripped wires you want to connect in either end of the tube, and use the crimping tool to squeeze the crimp shut at either end. Do this for each wire pair you want to match up and you should end up with a long bundle of wires that terminates with the connector in the back of your stereo. If this is all that you’re doing to your stereo, you can put the new cage in by bending the teeth out, plug the stereo and antenna into the harness and slide the whole deal right into your dash.
However, let’s say you have a CD changer to install. If you do, don’t put the stereo back in yet, cause you’ve got more work to do. First, you’ve got to find a place for the changer to be mounted. Some places to think about are in the trunk, under a seat, or under the dash. Think about how much you want to be able to change the CD’s, and how out-of-the-way you want it to be. Just don’t stick it anywhere that it might vibrate against bare metal. Once you figure out where you want it, mount it using the supplied brackets and screws. Take the RCA cable (the one with two plugs at either end) and the controller cable (probably resembles a compute cable), and run them to the dash. This can be very difficult, especially in newer cars, but if you put a little bit of time into it, you can make them invisible by hiding them underneath carpets, along molding pieces, or through body panels. Whatever you do, don’t run them into the engine compartment. When you get the cables run from the changer to the dash, it should be a cinch to plug them into the back of the head unit. Note that certain head units require a special adapter for a CD changer. At this point you can put the cage in if you have not done that. Just put it in the slot and use a screwdriver to bend the teeth out. Then plug in the head unit, hook the battery cable back up, and you’re done. Congratulations on your new stereo.
Before you get excited and try to jam that brand new CD player into your dash, there’s some work that needs to be done. First things first; before going any further, remove the negative cable from your battery. This will keep you safe as you are messing around with the wires.
Next, you’ve got to remove your old stereo. This often requires manufacturer’s tools. Consult the old manual for removal instructions. Once the head unit is out, you will see a cage bracket that held the stereo into the dash. This needs to come out. It should be held in either by screws or metal teeth that are bent to hook into the dash piece. If this is the case, simply take a screwdriver and some pliers and bend back the teeth that are sticking into the dash. The cage should slide right out.
Inside the dash you’ll find a bundle of wires connected to a plastic connector. This is your car’s wiring harness. Unfortunately, it will not fit your stereo yet. However, in the new box, you should have a similar looking piece that fits the back of your new head unit. Most of the wires coming out of this stereo harness will eventually match a wire in the car harness. However, at this point we need to match them up. There are two ways you can do this. Preferably, you can pick up an adapter (available at many retail stores) that will clip into the car harness and get crimped onto the stereo wires. If you are unable to get one of these adapters, never fear, you can simply cut the plastic car harness piece off. Avoid this if possible, as the harness wires are not very long, and it will mean you have to crimp them with your hands in the dashboard.
Now, find the wiring information for your old stereo. It should be in the owners manual, but if not, you can find it online. Compare this with the wiring information for your new stereo. There should be listings by wire color and what the wire is connected to. On the wires coming out of your dash and the back of the stereo you should have at least: four pairs of speaker wires, one always-on power wire, and one ground wire. Most modern cars and stereos also have a switched power wire that will turn the stereo off when the ignition goes off. Other wires you might encounter are: an amplifier remote coming out of the stereo, a power antenna control also coming out of the stereo, or possibly a cellular phone control wire coming from the car or the stereo. Besides the wires in the harnesses, there should be a thick antenna cable. Now is a good time to check to see if you need an adapter to make the antenna fit the stereo.
If you’re lucky, the colors of the wires coming out of your stereo and out of the car harness will match up, If this is the case, all you’ll have to do is match the a red always on power wire with a red power wire, black with black, and so on. However, it rarely works out this neatly, so be careful you get the wires right. I would suggest temporarily taping them together just so you can get them all sorted out before you actually connect anything. Now, to actually link them, you need crimps (either red or blue butt-splice or closed-end crimps; wire-nuts will not do here), a crimping tool, and a wire stripper. Use the stripper to take a half-inch of insulation off each of the wires. If you are using butt splice crimps, simply stick the stripped wires you want to connect in either end of the tube, and use the crimping tool to squeeze the crimp shut at either end. Do this for each wire pair you want to match up and you should end up with a long bundle of wires that terminates with the connector in the back of your stereo. If this is all that you’re doing to your stereo, you can put the new cage in by bending the teeth out, plug the stereo and antenna into the harness and slide the whole deal right into your dash.
However, let’s say you have a CD changer to install. If you do, don’t put the stereo back in yet, cause you’ve got more work to do. First, you’ve got to find a place for the changer to be mounted. Some places to think about are in the trunk, under a seat, or under the dash. Think about how much you want to be able to change the CD’s, and how out-of-the-way you want it to be. Just don’t stick it anywhere that it might vibrate against bare metal. Once you figure out where you want it, mount it using the supplied brackets and screws. Take the RCA cable (the one with two plugs at either end) and the controller cable (probably resembles a compute cable), and run them to the dash. This can be very difficult, especially in newer cars, but if you put a little bit of time into it, you can make them invisible by hiding them underneath carpets, along molding pieces, or through body panels. Whatever you do, don’t run them into the engine compartment. When you get the cables run from the changer to the dash, it should be a cinch to plug them into the back of the head unit. Note that certain head units require a special adapter for a CD changer. At this point you can put the cage in if you have not done that. Just put it in the slot and use a screwdriver to bend the teeth out. Then plug in the head unit, hook the battery cable back up, and you’re done. Congratulations on your new stereo.
Subwoofer enclosures come in many different models. Consider a ported subwoofer enclosure for all of your needs.
If you are in the market for a subwoofer box you need to know exactly what you are getting before deciding to make a purchase. In other words, you need to know what the subwoofer box is made out of, if it is durable, and what type of quality sound the box is going to provide to you.
Every subwoofer box is different, and it is important to answer these questions before moving forward. If you neglect to do the proper amount of research you may end up disappointed with the performance of your subwoofer box. A lot of people do not know that depending on what type of music you listen to, you will need a particular type of subwoofer enclosure. This information can be found by visiting the internet, or heading to your local car or audio store. But enough of that, what you really need to know is what subwoofer enclosure is the best for your needs. Nobody can answer that question but you, but ported subwoofer enclosures may be the way to go.
Ported subwoofer enclosures do a good job of providing quality sound, but you must realize that it will not be the best sound possible. A sealed subwoofer enclosure will provide you with better sound if that is what you are looking for. Even though ported subwoofer enclosures may not be up to par with the sealed boxes, they definitely deliver better quality than bandpass subwoofer boxes. Generally speaking, ported subwoofer enclosures are not quite the best you can get, but at the same time they are not the worst when it comes to the quality of the sound. Another fact about ported subwoofer enclosures is that they provide a higher output as well as more volume than a sealed subwoofer enclosure. With that being said, ported subwoofer enclosures do not quite offer the level of output and volume that a bandpass subwoofer enclosure can offer.
The main advantage of a ported subwoofer enclosure is strong mid-bass sound. If this is what you are looking for in your music you have found the best enclosure available. Ported subwoofer enclosures are almost always bigger than a standard sealed enclosure. These boxes also provide a round port behind the speaker, hence the name.
As you can probably see, every subwoofer enclosure is different. All of them have their own pros and cons, and personal preference is the only thing that makes one better than the next. If you do the appropriate amount of research, and know what kind of sound you are looking to obtain you will then know which type of enclosure to buy.
Ported subwoofer enclosures have a wide audience because of its ability to make most types of music sound good. They are capable at doing everything good and some things extremely well. The only way to find out if a ported subwoofer enclosure is for you is to hear the quality of the music that it can produce. So go out and find somebody who has one and see for yourself if this set up will benefit you.
If you are in the market for a subwoofer box you need to know exactly what you are getting before deciding to make a purchase. In other words, you need to know what the subwoofer box is made out of, if it is durable, and what type of quality sound the box is going to provide to you.
Every subwoofer box is different, and it is important to answer these questions before moving forward. If you neglect to do the proper amount of research you may end up disappointed with the performance of your subwoofer box. A lot of people do not know that depending on what type of music you listen to, you will need a particular type of subwoofer enclosure. This information can be found by visiting the internet, or heading to your local car or audio store. But enough of that, what you really need to know is what subwoofer enclosure is the best for your needs. Nobody can answer that question but you, but ported subwoofer enclosures may be the way to go.
Ported subwoofer enclosures do a good job of providing quality sound, but you must realize that it will not be the best sound possible. A sealed subwoofer enclosure will provide you with better sound if that is what you are looking for. Even though ported subwoofer enclosures may not be up to par with the sealed boxes, they definitely deliver better quality than bandpass subwoofer boxes. Generally speaking, ported subwoofer enclosures are not quite the best you can get, but at the same time they are not the worst when it comes to the quality of the sound. Another fact about ported subwoofer enclosures is that they provide a higher output as well as more volume than a sealed subwoofer enclosure. With that being said, ported subwoofer enclosures do not quite offer the level of output and volume that a bandpass subwoofer enclosure can offer.
The main advantage of a ported subwoofer enclosure is strong mid-bass sound. If this is what you are looking for in your music you have found the best enclosure available. Ported subwoofer enclosures are almost always bigger than a standard sealed enclosure. These boxes also provide a round port behind the speaker, hence the name.
As you can probably see, every subwoofer enclosure is different. All of them have their own pros and cons, and personal preference is the only thing that makes one better than the next. If you do the appropriate amount of research, and know what kind of sound you are looking to obtain you will then know which type of enclosure to buy.
Ported subwoofer enclosures have a wide audience because of its ability to make most types of music sound good. They are capable at doing everything good and some things extremely well. The only way to find out if a ported subwoofer enclosure is for you is to hear the quality of the music that it can produce. So go out and find somebody who has one and see for yourself if this set up will benefit you.
Speakers are not the only consideration when looking for superior bass to add to your sound system. The type of box that houses the subwoofer is also a major consideration and there are several different types of enclosures that can be used depending upon the kind of bass you want your subwoofer to produce.
One popular type of box for subwoofers is sealed subwoofer enclosures. Basically, a sealed subwoofer enclosure is a sealed box that is completely and totally airtight that provides a home for the woofer. Sealed subwoofer enclosures provide tight and accurate bass, which is sometimes exactly what is needed for the type of music that demands this type of bass. The listener is obviously the one that needs to make the ultimate decision about what the music will sound best with when it comes to bass, but there are guidelines available to help amateurs determine what will sound best with different types of music. A loud booming bass will not be produced from sealed subwoofer enclosures, so if you are not expecting a flat response or deep bass extension, look into other types of boxes for your speakers.
A significant difference in sealed subwoofer enclosures is found in the amount of power required to correctly run your speakers. Ample power is a must for sealed subwoofer enclosures and the best method is to use an amplifier for the additional power. The amplifier must have ample wattage in order to provide enough power to obtain maximum, optimal performance from the sealed subwoofer enclosure. A proper amplifier can be purchased at any stereo equipment store or online for that matter. The amount of wattage is what is most important so be sure to determine what that number is before going out and shopping for a new amplifier. There are plenty of experts available to assist you with figuring out just how much power is actually required to operate your sealed subwoofer enclosure at optimal levels. These experts work primarily in the higher end stereo shops and are usually very willing to share their knowledge of stereo equipment and all of the components required to operate your stereo with the best sound quality available.
Once you have made the decision that sealed subwoofer enclosures are the way to go for the type of bass you want you then have additional options as far as actually getting a box. Many people are skilled enough and able to build sealed subwoofer enclosures themselves, which is certainly one way to go for the serious stereo enthusiast. However, the majority of people tend to purchase already built sealed subwoofer enclosures from a store or vendor online. The tight accurate bass that this type of box offers is only guaranteed if the box the speaker is put into is constructed correctly without any air able to get in. This can be a challenging feat for people who have not built sealed subwoofer enclosures before, which is why most stereo enthusiasts purchase them from someone else. That way the component is guaranteed to function properly and provide the type of bass that you are looking for.
One popular type of box for subwoofers is sealed subwoofer enclosures. Basically, a sealed subwoofer enclosure is a sealed box that is completely and totally airtight that provides a home for the woofer. Sealed subwoofer enclosures provide tight and accurate bass, which is sometimes exactly what is needed for the type of music that demands this type of bass. The listener is obviously the one that needs to make the ultimate decision about what the music will sound best with when it comes to bass, but there are guidelines available to help amateurs determine what will sound best with different types of music. A loud booming bass will not be produced from sealed subwoofer enclosures, so if you are not expecting a flat response or deep bass extension, look into other types of boxes for your speakers.
A significant difference in sealed subwoofer enclosures is found in the amount of power required to correctly run your speakers. Ample power is a must for sealed subwoofer enclosures and the best method is to use an amplifier for the additional power. The amplifier must have ample wattage in order to provide enough power to obtain maximum, optimal performance from the sealed subwoofer enclosure. A proper amplifier can be purchased at any stereo equipment store or online for that matter. The amount of wattage is what is most important so be sure to determine what that number is before going out and shopping for a new amplifier. There are plenty of experts available to assist you with figuring out just how much power is actually required to operate your sealed subwoofer enclosure at optimal levels. These experts work primarily in the higher end stereo shops and are usually very willing to share their knowledge of stereo equipment and all of the components required to operate your stereo with the best sound quality available.
Once you have made the decision that sealed subwoofer enclosures are the way to go for the type of bass you want you then have additional options as far as actually getting a box. Many people are skilled enough and able to build sealed subwoofer enclosures themselves, which is certainly one way to go for the serious stereo enthusiast. However, the majority of people tend to purchase already built sealed subwoofer enclosures from a store or vendor online. The tight accurate bass that this type of box offers is only guaranteed if the box the speaker is put into is constructed correctly without any air able to get in. This can be a challenging feat for people who have not built sealed subwoofer enclosures before, which is why most stereo enthusiasts purchase them from someone else. That way the component is guaranteed to function properly and provide the type of bass that you are looking for.
- Materials
A box has to be very rigid. Most common building materials are 5/8″ or thicker particle board or medium density fiberboard.
If building a box with Plexiglas, do not use anything less that 1/2 inch thick.
A common material used to mold complex shaped boxes is fiberglass, but it is a real pain to work with, and several layers need to be applied for a solid finish.
- Gluing, Sealing
Use glue at all joints (cheapest and most used product is Liquid Nails). Make sure there are no holes. Any leaks will degrade the performance of your subs, not to mention the annoying noise air makes when being pushed out of a small hole.
Let glue cure for at least 24 hours before mounting the woofers. The fumes of some products will eat up rubber and other materials subs are made of.
- Holding Joints Together
Screw joints (use 2″ - 2-1/2″ screws) every four inches or so. Pre-drill about 3/4″ deep, so that screws do not split the wood at the edges, especially when working with particleboard.
- A box for Each Sub?
Even though it is not necessary to have two separate chambers for two subs, it is best to take this approach for two reasons: First, if one of the subs dies, then the volume of the box will be “twice” as big, as seen by the sub that is still working. This could cause problems and even damage the other sub. The second reason is bracing. building a box with a divider in the middle will be much sturdier.
- Making Ports
There are several way to build ports. If a pre-made port is not available, the most common material is PVC tubing. PVC tubing is very rigid, comes in different diameters, and is easily found at any hardware store.
Cut the tubing at the desired length. Consider the volume the port takes up when calculating the box volume. Cut a hole in the box. Make sure the hole is as perfect as possible to minimize gaps between the box and the tube. A couple wood braces can be added for screwing the port top the box. Seal the gaps using plenty of Liquid Nails or similar product.
- Bracing
Boxes that are more than a foot on width or length or height, should be braced (use a piece of wood maybe 3 or 4 inches wide across the box, so that box does not flex). It is a good idea to put wood blocks on the corners for reinforcement. Always consider that blocks, braces, neon lights, etc. inside a box take up space and should be accounted for when calculating internal volume.
- Damping/Filling
It is advisable to put damping material inside a box. Pillow polyfill and fiberglass insulation are common, though polyfill is a lot easier on your skin. This increases subwoofer efficiency by dissipating some energy that affects the sub, particularly the voice coil. Polyfill also “fools” a sub into thinking it is in a bigger box. Play around with different amounts of polyfill until you get the desired results.
- Finishing the Box
Add wood filler to holes and sand the box to make a smooth surface. If you are painting the box, It is a good idea to apply primer under the paint.
It is not necessary to sand the box if you are using carpet or padding under vinyl, since the thickness of the material will cover any small imperfections. The best way to cut carpet or vinyl is with a good quality carpet knife. Blades wear out pretty quickly, so buy a handful. Cut a piece of carpet (or vinyl) big enough to cover the whole box. Apply adhesive to both box and carpet (spray 3M adhesive 77 or 90 works great). Wait about a minute and place the fabric over the wood. For a good fit, stretch the fabric when applying it. The fabric should wrap around and end in a place of the box that will not be seen. Do one side at a time, cutting excess carpet. If possible, add staples to hold the fabric at the ends.
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