With all theproducts available today, it is no wonder that Pioneer is on of the leaders in the car stereo industry.
Tokyo-based Pioneer Corporation, founded in 1938 in Tokyo, began as a radio and speaker repair shop. Known as a world leader in digital entertainment products and technology advancements in the consumer electronics industry today, Pioneer North America emerged from this Tokyo-based Pioneer Corporation.
Pioneer introduced products from interactive cable TV, the Laser Disc player, developing the first Compact Disc player for the car and the first detachable face car stereo, DVD and DVD recording, plasma display, to the organic electroluminescent display. Today, the company relies on its optical disc and display technology, complimented by the state-of-art software products, and manufacturing capabilities, to be the strength of the company.
Pioneer North America, which began operations in 1972, employs almost 3,000 people. Headquarters for this company are located in Long Beach, California with Tom Haga as President and Chief Executive Officer.
Pioneer products available for vehicle installation are digital satellite radio, CD players, cassette players, equalizers, amplifiers, subwoofers and speakers. The digital satellite radio tuners offered by Pioneer are designed for Pioneer source units and feature display information such as channel name and number, artist and song name. Pioneer also offers satellite antennas to go with their satellite radio tuners. The Pioneer CD players offer a dynamic range of sounds that sound great in a car. Pioneer offers a full line of CD Receivers and CD changers, even models that will work with factory-installed stereos. These CD players are available in single and multi-disc players. Some Pioneer products feature OEL (Organic Electroluminescent) displays with customized color and motion. These OEL displays have the ability to put a screensaver with a personal digital movie right on the dash of the car. This technology was introduced to the world in 1999 and can do more than any regular display, including a screensaver, which begins when the deck is not active and have level indicators and spectrum analyzers as well as background videos. OEL displays can also be seen in bright sunlight, read from the side, which is convenient for passengers and is easier to control making it safer for the driver. Pioneer cassette players come complete with detachable face security and a supertuner. Pioneer equalizers are the tops in fine-tuning and are a powerful tool for customizing the music in the vehicle and features detachable face security as well as electronic dual-amp balancing, a multi-color display and a remote sensor for a remote controller. Amplifiers offered by Pioneer are all-powerful and deliver massive power with less heat and less distortion than a conventional amp all in a smaller chassis, which saves space during installation. Subwoofers made by Pioneer are designed specifically to return the tightest thundering bass possible in an enclosure that will fit most any size vehicle.
Pioneer’s speakers are developed using the most up-to-date technology with the widest selection to fit any installation requirement needed. Pioneer is also the largest car speaker manufacturer in the world, with speaker sizes of 6”x9”, 6”x8”, 6.5”, oversized 6.5”, 5”x7”, 5.25”, 4”x10”, 4”x6”, 4” and component speakers, component tweeters, nautical speakers, truck riders and surface mount speakers.
With all these products available today, it is no wonder that Pioneer is on of the leaders in the car stereo industry.
Kenwood products have repeatedly set the benchmark for performance, innovation and reliability for years.
Kenwood products have repeatedly set the benchmark for performance, innovation and reliability for years. Kenwood strives to produce products that will not be obsolete in the near future as well as products that the consumer will be proud to own. Kenwood is also always looking toward the future and keeping its products up-to-date with the latest technology without the consumer having to worry about their entertainment gear being up-to-date. This concept is what Kenwood calls ‘Future Ready/Already’.
Kenwood has always been Future Ready/Already even in the beginnings of the Kenwood Company. The Kenwood Company began by designing and manufacturing Japan’s first FM tuner and solid-state amplifier. After the FM tuner, the company built the most popular stereo receiver ever to sell in the United States. In 1981, Kenwood invented the world’s first audio/video amplifier and audio/video system, many years before other companies would come out with home theater products like them. Kenwood kept the invention streak rolling with the introduction of the first anti-theft car stereo in 1984. All these milestones in Kenwood’s history prove that they are Future Ready/Already.
20 years later, Kenwood is still proving that they are Future Ready/Already by introducing more products, such as the KTC-HR100 HD Radio™ tuner that is the first on the market or the Networked Home Theater Systems that play video and audio files from the home computer. Kenwood also has introduced the 3D MASK Pro™ 3-dimensional control and display system, A.M.S. ™ which is an amplifier management system, Typhoon woofer cones, K-STAT™ self-adjusting power transistors, and Image Enhancer™ tweeter technology. The 2004 Kenwood products bring entertainment of the future for the consumer to enjoy it today.
Staying Future Ready/Already keeps Kenwood examining and refining its products to keep ahead of the competition while pleasing the consumer that has come to depend on Kenwood. All emerging technologies are examined to determine how they can serve the entertainment needs of the consumer. Kenwood diligently searches for more improved ways to make them user friendly, accessible and invisible to the point where the consumer will not even think about the technology itself, the consumer will only know that they are enjoying the product. However, at
Kenwood, Future Ready/Already is more than just features and technologies. Kenwood believes that the future is now and when a consumer owns a Kenwood product, they are ready for tomorrow.
Kenwood offers the best sound and visuals available for the consumer to take on the road either across town or across the nation. The consumer can transform their vehicle into a movie theater, drown out the sound from competition, improve their navigation around town or just simply enjoy the music they enjoy. In addition, with Kenwood’s idea that the future is now, the entertainment gear offered by them is always future ready.
With all the focus that Kenwood puts on their products, they are always ready for yesterday, today and more importantly tomorrow. Kenwood strives to keep there consumers up-to-date which in turn makes for consumers who will become brand loyal to Kenwood.
Kenwood products have repeatedly set the benchmark for performance, innovation and reliability for years. Kenwood strives to produce products that will not be obsolete in the near future as well as products that the consumer will be proud to own. Kenwood is also always looking toward the future and keeping its products up-to-date with the latest technology without the consumer having to worry about their entertainment gear being up-to-date. This concept is what Kenwood calls ‘Future Ready/Already’.
Kenwood has always been Future Ready/Already even in the beginnings of the Kenwood Company. The Kenwood Company began by designing and manufacturing Japan’s first FM tuner and solid-state amplifier. After the FM tuner, the company built the most popular stereo receiver ever to sell in the United States. In 1981, Kenwood invented the world’s first audio/video amplifier and audio/video system, many years before other companies would come out with home theater products like them. Kenwood kept the invention streak rolling with the introduction of the first anti-theft car stereo in 1984. All these milestones in Kenwood’s history prove that they are Future Ready/Already.
20 years later, Kenwood is still proving that they are Future Ready/Already by introducing more products, such as the KTC-HR100 HD Radio™ tuner that is the first on the market or the Networked Home Theater Systems that play video and audio files from the home computer. Kenwood also has introduced the 3D MASK Pro™ 3-dimensional control and display system, A.M.S. ™ which is an amplifier management system, Typhoon woofer cones, K-STAT™ self-adjusting power transistors, and Image Enhancer™ tweeter technology. The 2004 Kenwood products bring entertainment of the future for the consumer to enjoy it today.
Staying Future Ready/Already keeps Kenwood examining and refining its products to keep ahead of the competition while pleasing the consumer that has come to depend on Kenwood. All emerging technologies are examined to determine how they can serve the entertainment needs of the consumer. Kenwood diligently searches for more improved ways to make them user friendly, accessible and invisible to the point where the consumer will not even think about the technology itself, the consumer will only know that they are enjoying the product. However, at
Kenwood, Future Ready/Already is more than just features and technologies. Kenwood believes that the future is now and when a consumer owns a Kenwood product, they are ready for tomorrow.
Kenwood offers the best sound and visuals available for the consumer to take on the road either across town or across the nation. The consumer can transform their vehicle into a movie theater, drown out the sound from competition, improve their navigation around town or just simply enjoy the music they enjoy. In addition, with Kenwood’s idea that the future is now, the entertainment gear offered by them is always future ready.
With all the focus that Kenwood puts on their products, they are always ready for yesterday, today and more importantly tomorrow. Kenwood strives to keep there consumers up-to-date which in turn makes for consumers who will become brand loyal to Kenwood.
Satellite radio represents the newest and best technology for receiving music signals. This simple guide will enable you to install a satellite radio receiver in your car.
There are several different types of satellite radio receivers available. This guide will cover the basics of installing plug and play tuners as well as hardwired in-car tuners. Plug and play tuners are units that mount on the dashboard of the vehicle. They typically come with one or more devices to connect the tuner to the stereo, as well as a cigarette lighter adapter and a mounting bracket. In-car tuners are usually rectangular boxes that will be controlled by the head unit and powered by the car power supply.
Plug and Play Tuners
Step 1- Install the mounting bracket. Select a location that does not obstruct the driver’s view of the console or the road. The bracket should also be placed within arm’s length of the driver’s seat. To mount the bracket to the dash, first clean off the spot with alcohol wipes. Wait for this to dry, then remove the adhesive backing from the bracket and press firmly onto the dash for at least 30 seconds. Wait at least an hour before applying any weight to the bracket. The bracket can then be reinforced with screws or bolts if needed. Once the bracket is in place, slide the radio unit in place.
Step 2- Connect the unit to the stereo. If your stereo has an auxiliary in port, use the supplied adaptor to connect the unit directly to this port. If you plan on using a cassette adapter, connection is as simple as putting the cassette into the stereo. If you choose to use an FM modulator, set both the modulator and the head unit to the same frequency.
Step 3- Connect the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive backing, use the same process as mounting the bracket. If the antenna is magnetic, simply place it on the roof of the car. The optimal placement for the antenna is the highest point on the car. Run the antenna wires through one of the door seals, but make sure the cord will not be damaged by the normal operation of the door. Once the cord is inside the car, run it beneath the carpet all the way up to the satellite tuner and plug it in.
Step 4- Connect the unit to a power source. This is usually done by way of a cigarette lighter adapter. If you plan on hardwiring the power line, use crimps and appropriate fuses to make a good connection to a 12v switched power line.
Step 5- Activate the satellite radio. This can usually be done online or over the phone. You will need the activation code for the radio. Once the radio is activated, it will function normally.
Head unit controlled Satellite radio
Step 1- Mount the tuner box. Select a location that will be out-of the way, and easy accessible for wiring purposes. This is usually either in the trunk or under one of the rear seats. Use the included hardware to bolt the box into something solid. Be wary of puncturing floor panels, and be aware of what you are drilling into. Do not place the unit beneath any carpeting.
Step 2- Wire the power lines for the box. Before you do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the car battery. Find a 12v line, either switched or non-switched, that you are able to tap into. It is best to use either the head unit power source or the cigarette lighter power source. To split the line, clip the existing cable at the desired location and crimp the three lines back together. Fuse the line before and after the split. Run the power cable beneath the carpet back to the tuner box and plug it in.
Step 3- Hook the tuner box to the stereo. The unit should come with two cables: an RCA patch cable and a bus controller cable. Plug both of these cables into their respective ports in the tuner box and run them up to the head unit. Plug them into the ports in the back of the head unit.
Step 4- Mount the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive mount, first clean the area you intend to mount it on, then remove the adhesive backing and press firmly for at least 30 seconds. In the case of a magnetic mount antenna simply place it where you want it. The best mounting location is the highest point on the car. Be sure the antenna is not obstructed by any part of the car. Run the wires into the car through a door seal, then underneath the carpet until you reach the tuner box. Plug both the ground (terra) and satellite antenna cables into the unit.
Step 5- Activate the unit by following the instructions provided. You will need the activation or identification numbers for the unit, so write these down before you call.
There are several different types of satellite radio receivers available. This guide will cover the basics of installing plug and play tuners as well as hardwired in-car tuners. Plug and play tuners are units that mount on the dashboard of the vehicle. They typically come with one or more devices to connect the tuner to the stereo, as well as a cigarette lighter adapter and a mounting bracket. In-car tuners are usually rectangular boxes that will be controlled by the head unit and powered by the car power supply.
Plug and Play Tuners
Step 1- Install the mounting bracket. Select a location that does not obstruct the driver’s view of the console or the road. The bracket should also be placed within arm’s length of the driver’s seat. To mount the bracket to the dash, first clean off the spot with alcohol wipes. Wait for this to dry, then remove the adhesive backing from the bracket and press firmly onto the dash for at least 30 seconds. Wait at least an hour before applying any weight to the bracket. The bracket can then be reinforced with screws or bolts if needed. Once the bracket is in place, slide the radio unit in place.
Step 2- Connect the unit to the stereo. If your stereo has an auxiliary in port, use the supplied adaptor to connect the unit directly to this port. If you plan on using a cassette adapter, connection is as simple as putting the cassette into the stereo. If you choose to use an FM modulator, set both the modulator and the head unit to the same frequency.
Step 3- Connect the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive backing, use the same process as mounting the bracket. If the antenna is magnetic, simply place it on the roof of the car. The optimal placement for the antenna is the highest point on the car. Run the antenna wires through one of the door seals, but make sure the cord will not be damaged by the normal operation of the door. Once the cord is inside the car, run it beneath the carpet all the way up to the satellite tuner and plug it in.
Step 4- Connect the unit to a power source. This is usually done by way of a cigarette lighter adapter. If you plan on hardwiring the power line, use crimps and appropriate fuses to make a good connection to a 12v switched power line.
Step 5- Activate the satellite radio. This can usually be done online or over the phone. You will need the activation code for the radio. Once the radio is activated, it will function normally.
Head unit controlled Satellite radio
Step 1- Mount the tuner box. Select a location that will be out-of the way, and easy accessible for wiring purposes. This is usually either in the trunk or under one of the rear seats. Use the included hardware to bolt the box into something solid. Be wary of puncturing floor panels, and be aware of what you are drilling into. Do not place the unit beneath any carpeting.
Step 2- Wire the power lines for the box. Before you do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the car battery. Find a 12v line, either switched or non-switched, that you are able to tap into. It is best to use either the head unit power source or the cigarette lighter power source. To split the line, clip the existing cable at the desired location and crimp the three lines back together. Fuse the line before and after the split. Run the power cable beneath the carpet back to the tuner box and plug it in.
Step 3- Hook the tuner box to the stereo. The unit should come with two cables: an RCA patch cable and a bus controller cable. Plug both of these cables into their respective ports in the tuner box and run them up to the head unit. Plug them into the ports in the back of the head unit.
Step 4- Mount the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive mount, first clean the area you intend to mount it on, then remove the adhesive backing and press firmly for at least 30 seconds. In the case of a magnetic mount antenna simply place it where you want it. The best mounting location is the highest point on the car. Be sure the antenna is not obstructed by any part of the car. Run the wires into the car through a door seal, then underneath the carpet until you reach the tuner box. Plug both the ground (terra) and satellite antenna cables into the unit.
Step 5- Activate the unit by following the instructions provided. You will need the activation or identification numbers for the unit, so write these down before you call.
How to install car stereo satellite radio without professional help.
Hooking up your satellite radio in your car is easy and there are several methods to go about it. The positives of doing this are that you do not have to pay someone to hook the system up and you often get similar quality results to those of professional installation. The obvious downside is that the aesthetics of the results may not be that desirable.
The four ways suggested here to get satellite radio in your car are: Through your stereo’s input jack, through your car stereo’s tape player, via an FM modulated transmitter, and through a portable stereo’s input Jack. The sections on powering your receiver, the antenna, running the antenna wire, and mounting the receiver are universal in all installations.
If you have selected a satellite radio provider and a satellite radio receiver, you are on your way. If you have not selected a satellite radio provider, you should search the Internet and visit the consumer electronics shops in your area. The content of the two satellite radio providers is slightly different and you may want to choose the one more suited to your tastes. The satellite provider you choose also will determine the receiver that you will be able to use. These receivers come in all shapes and price range and should definitely factor in your decision. Also, whether you want to use the installation advice here depends on the receiver you choose. Some retailers will provide free installation with a purchase over a certain amount; it is advisable to look into these deals where they exist.
Powering your receiver:
Your receiver will require some sort of input power. Usually, it is 12V DC. Check on the back of your receiver and then check at your local consumer electronics store for a cigarette lighter adapter. This will cost around $20.
The antenna:
It may be helpful just to buy the car adapter kit for your receiver. For most models this costs around $50. As strange as it sounds, there is a difference between your home antenna and your car antennae. An antenna designed for the car will invariably get better reception. You can, if you are set on the idea, try your home antenna and you may get good results. Antennas designed for the car often come with magnetic backings to facilitate installation. The car adapter kit is a good idea and it may come with other useful accessories. You have to make sure that the kit you buy matches your receiver.
Running the antenna wire:
Running the antenna wire is the most painstaking part of the installation. First, you need to decide where you want to mount the antenna and receiver. If you choose to mount the antenna inside under a window, you can expect to have reduced reception. Satellite radio will cut out normally under large bridges. Mounting the antenna inside will worsen this problem and may even cause cutouts on tree lined roads and mountainous canyons that would not normally cause a problem if the antenna were mounted outside. Where you live may factor into this decision. If you live in an urban area with large buildings, in the mountains or in a place with heavy forests, you will almost certainly need to mount the antenna outside the car. If you live among the wheat fields of the mid-west, you may be able to get away with mounting the antenna inside the car, but you will almost certainly have to place it under the window.
To run the wire, you can wedge the wire under the trim around doors and under seats. Be creative, your car is full of plastic pockets that have enough void space to hold the wire. Make sure that when the wire is run from the outside of the car to the inside that there are no sharp edges that will cut the wire. Also, it is necessary to leave enough slack if you mount the antenna on a moving exterior surface like a trunk. It may be, in some areas advisable to buy zip ties or use old garbage bag ties to hold the wire where the slack may get in the way. Often left over wire can be tucked into a void under a plastic cover. It is important that the wire in no way impedes your ability to operate the vehicle and it should not come into contact with heat elements such as those found in heated seats or ventilation ducts.
Attaching the receiver:
Some of the car adapter kits come with suction cups and other methods for mounting the receiver. Many times, these methods simply do not work. Depending on how much you value the interior of your car will determine how you want to mount the receiver. Preferably, you will want it close at hand and easily operable without distracting your attention from operating the motor vehicle. One method is to simply place the receiver in any available cavity in your dashboard. A second preferred method that may leave lasting marks on your dash is to install the receiver with adhesive Velcro. They sell this at any hardware store and in the tools section of your local discount retailer. This also allows you to remove the receiver when changing channels.
Connecting through your car’s input jack:
Check the front of your car’s stereo to see if there is an input jack. If one exists, check the owner’s manual (if you do not have it chances are it is available online) and go to your local consumer electronics store to find the cables you need. Simply power the receiver, plug it to the antenna and plug it to the front of your stereo. Congratulations, you have the easiest method of retrofitting your car with satellite radio. You are the envy of those who have to read on.
Connecting through your car’s tape deck:
This requires the purchase of an approximately $15 item that can be bought at any consumer electronics store. It looks like a tape that has a wire coming from the corner. This item can be handy because it can be used not only with your satellite radio receiver, but also with almost all of your other consumer electronics such as an iPod, your cell phone, or a portable DVD player. You may not love it, but your kids will when you have a Bug’s life jamming through your car’s stereo system.
FM Modulated transmitter:
This isn’t cheap. Generally, they are as hard to install as a car stereo. Also, if your car stereo doesn’t have a tape deck or an input, it may be advisable to either by a new stereo with free installation, or go with the portable stereo option below. But, if you love your current stereo and have a spare $200 and an afternoon give this option a try. How it works is the satellite receiver is plugged into a FM transmitter that broadcasts at low power just to your car stereo. So you can tune into a station like 88.5 FM and hear your satellite radio. You will have to follow the instructions that come with the FM modulator kit because they come in all shapes and sizes. Too detailed for a short introductory article.
Use a portable stereo:
This is the ultimate in going on the cheap. If you do not have a stereo that has a working tape deck or input jack and do not want to shell out the extra cash for a new stereo, this is the option for you. First you need to acquire a portable stereo with input jacks. Having done that, you will need to power it. You will need to research what kind of power source it needs. If it has a 12 V DC input, you are in business. Just use a cigarette lighter adapter like the one mentioned in powering your receiver. If it takes 120V AC (the most common) you can find adapters that will do that for you at your local automotive part store. Once you have powered the stereo, the receiver and hooked up the antenna you just have to make sure you do not trip over the wires. It might also be helpful to have a friend operate this contraption, as it may be difficult to do yourself in a moving vehicle.
Hooking up your satellite radio in your car is easy and there are several methods to go about it. The positives of doing this are that you do not have to pay someone to hook the system up and you often get similar quality results to those of professional installation. The obvious downside is that the aesthetics of the results may not be that desirable.
The four ways suggested here to get satellite radio in your car are: Through your stereo’s input jack, through your car stereo’s tape player, via an FM modulated transmitter, and through a portable stereo’s input Jack. The sections on powering your receiver, the antenna, running the antenna wire, and mounting the receiver are universal in all installations.
If you have selected a satellite radio provider and a satellite radio receiver, you are on your way. If you have not selected a satellite radio provider, you should search the Internet and visit the consumer electronics shops in your area. The content of the two satellite radio providers is slightly different and you may want to choose the one more suited to your tastes. The satellite provider you choose also will determine the receiver that you will be able to use. These receivers come in all shapes and price range and should definitely factor in your decision. Also, whether you want to use the installation advice here depends on the receiver you choose. Some retailers will provide free installation with a purchase over a certain amount; it is advisable to look into these deals where they exist.
Powering your receiver:
Your receiver will require some sort of input power. Usually, it is 12V DC. Check on the back of your receiver and then check at your local consumer electronics store for a cigarette lighter adapter. This will cost around $20.
The antenna:
It may be helpful just to buy the car adapter kit for your receiver. For most models this costs around $50. As strange as it sounds, there is a difference between your home antenna and your car antennae. An antenna designed for the car will invariably get better reception. You can, if you are set on the idea, try your home antenna and you may get good results. Antennas designed for the car often come with magnetic backings to facilitate installation. The car adapter kit is a good idea and it may come with other useful accessories. You have to make sure that the kit you buy matches your receiver.
Running the antenna wire:
Running the antenna wire is the most painstaking part of the installation. First, you need to decide where you want to mount the antenna and receiver. If you choose to mount the antenna inside under a window, you can expect to have reduced reception. Satellite radio will cut out normally under large bridges. Mounting the antenna inside will worsen this problem and may even cause cutouts on tree lined roads and mountainous canyons that would not normally cause a problem if the antenna were mounted outside. Where you live may factor into this decision. If you live in an urban area with large buildings, in the mountains or in a place with heavy forests, you will almost certainly need to mount the antenna outside the car. If you live among the wheat fields of the mid-west, you may be able to get away with mounting the antenna inside the car, but you will almost certainly have to place it under the window.
To run the wire, you can wedge the wire under the trim around doors and under seats. Be creative, your car is full of plastic pockets that have enough void space to hold the wire. Make sure that when the wire is run from the outside of the car to the inside that there are no sharp edges that will cut the wire. Also, it is necessary to leave enough slack if you mount the antenna on a moving exterior surface like a trunk. It may be, in some areas advisable to buy zip ties or use old garbage bag ties to hold the wire where the slack may get in the way. Often left over wire can be tucked into a void under a plastic cover. It is important that the wire in no way impedes your ability to operate the vehicle and it should not come into contact with heat elements such as those found in heated seats or ventilation ducts.
Attaching the receiver:
Some of the car adapter kits come with suction cups and other methods for mounting the receiver. Many times, these methods simply do not work. Depending on how much you value the interior of your car will determine how you want to mount the receiver. Preferably, you will want it close at hand and easily operable without distracting your attention from operating the motor vehicle. One method is to simply place the receiver in any available cavity in your dashboard. A second preferred method that may leave lasting marks on your dash is to install the receiver with adhesive Velcro. They sell this at any hardware store and in the tools section of your local discount retailer. This also allows you to remove the receiver when changing channels.
Connecting through your car’s input jack:
Check the front of your car’s stereo to see if there is an input jack. If one exists, check the owner’s manual (if you do not have it chances are it is available online) and go to your local consumer electronics store to find the cables you need. Simply power the receiver, plug it to the antenna and plug it to the front of your stereo. Congratulations, you have the easiest method of retrofitting your car with satellite radio. You are the envy of those who have to read on.
Connecting through your car’s tape deck:
This requires the purchase of an approximately $15 item that can be bought at any consumer electronics store. It looks like a tape that has a wire coming from the corner. This item can be handy because it can be used not only with your satellite radio receiver, but also with almost all of your other consumer electronics such as an iPod, your cell phone, or a portable DVD player. You may not love it, but your kids will when you have a Bug’s life jamming through your car’s stereo system.
FM Modulated transmitter:
This isn’t cheap. Generally, they are as hard to install as a car stereo. Also, if your car stereo doesn’t have a tape deck or an input, it may be advisable to either by a new stereo with free installation, or go with the portable stereo option below. But, if you love your current stereo and have a spare $200 and an afternoon give this option a try. How it works is the satellite receiver is plugged into a FM transmitter that broadcasts at low power just to your car stereo. So you can tune into a station like 88.5 FM and hear your satellite radio. You will have to follow the instructions that come with the FM modulator kit because they come in all shapes and sizes. Too detailed for a short introductory article.
Use a portable stereo:
This is the ultimate in going on the cheap. If you do not have a stereo that has a working tape deck or input jack and do not want to shell out the extra cash for a new stereo, this is the option for you. First you need to acquire a portable stereo with input jacks. Having done that, you will need to power it. You will need to research what kind of power source it needs. If it has a 12 V DC input, you are in business. Just use a cigarette lighter adapter like the one mentioned in powering your receiver. If it takes 120V AC (the most common) you can find adapters that will do that for you at your local automotive part store. Once you have powered the stereo, the receiver and hooked up the antenna you just have to make sure you do not trip over the wires. It might also be helpful to have a friend operate this contraption, as it may be difficult to do yourself in a moving vehicle.
If a stereo isn't "playing right", it doesn't mean the unit is broken.
The car stereo has been installed, everything seems to have been done correctly, but there is still a problem. What can be done about it? If a trip to the dealer, or installer is not part of the available solution, or if the job was done by a friend, how should the troubleshooting be done effectively? The answers may lie within this article. Read through the following steps until all sample problems have been corrected or at least removed from possible causes of the issue at hand.
Maintenance and preventive car will help alleviate potential problems with any car stereo. All car stereos need a little maintenance to keep them performing the way they were meant to perform when they were initially installed.
1. All tape heads must be periodically cleaned, and there are kits available for this purpose. The kits may be purchased from auto departments at most chain stores; auto parts stores, or even the dealer if necessary. The kit usually contains an alcohol-based fluid, and cotton-covered swabs that resemble Q-Tips. Use one drop of the liquid on the cotton swab and gently wipe the tape heads for 2-3 seconds. This should be done after every 20 hours of tape play. This will keep road dirt, static electricity, and cigarette tar from gumming up the inner workings of the player.
2. CD players need maintenance as well. Some things to remember about CD players: skipping may be caused by fingerprints, dust, or scratches on the CD inserted into the player, so always be certain the playing surface is smooth and clean. To keep CDs clean, try using CD Saver by CRS. This kit provides a special cloth and a silica-based liquid to clean the surface of the CD. To clean the inside of a CD player, there are CDs that are made expressly for that purpose. Usually, these can be purchased at a dealership or auto parts store.
3. Speakers should be tightened from time to time, as they can attle loose from bumpy roads and general car vibration. Also check for debris on speakers that are mounted on the rear dash, facing upward. Road grit can accumulate, causing rattling and distorted sound. Also this grit and dust can get trapped between the speaker grill and the cone inside; if this is the issue, remove the speaker grill and use a hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove the offending particles. Replace the speaker grill and try the sound again. Also clean the speakers with a damp cloth or an Armor-All cloth and sound should return to normal.
4. If the stereo doesn't seem to be getting power, check the fuse box. Sometimes the fuse will burst from a power surge, or simply burn out. Changing a fuse is an easy task because the fuse box is usually located under the dash or in the glove box. Fuses are very inexpensive and are sold singly or in sets. Simply remove the fuse that is blackened, and match it to one of the new fuses purchased, place the new fuse into the fuse box and the radio should now have power.
5. Sometimes the sound may seem "thin" when the stereo is playing. This could mean that the left/right channel controls are out of phase. Reverse the leads on one speaker. If nothing else, the base response will dramatically increase.
6. Signal loss may occur if the antenna wire becomes loose or unplugged. Check under the cowl or front fender, and in some cars, the glove box. If the wire is connected, try disconnecting it and reconnecting it to be sure there is a clean, tight connection. Also, if this was a home installation, it is prudent to re-check any soldered or taped connections to be certain all wire still have a tight connection. One last thing to check on door speakers, see if the wire has been crimped or cut by the door. Often speaker wires can come loose and be tangled in the door threshold, causing distortion or loss of sound altogether.
7. If options 1-6 have been tried and there is still a problem with sound in a speaker, check to see if there is a short in the wire. If there is an uninsulated stretch of wire, or if the electrical tape has come loose, there could be dirt and loose wiring to blame. Something else to consider is that the uncovered wire may have touched other metal on the car, which is called grounding. In either case, clean the connection, re-twist wires together, and apply fresh electrical tape.
Diagnosing an ailing car stereo is fairly easy, but can be time-consuming. Remember, that 50% of car repair is patience. Go through the steps above in an attempt to identify and rectify the issue the stereo is having. Nothing is more frustrating that to pay a "professional" to do something that could have been done in the driveway at no cost. If all else fails, it might be time to go to a repair facility, or worse-the dealership.
The car stereo has been installed, everything seems to have been done correctly, but there is still a problem. What can be done about it? If a trip to the dealer, or installer is not part of the available solution, or if the job was done by a friend, how should the troubleshooting be done effectively? The answers may lie within this article. Read through the following steps until all sample problems have been corrected or at least removed from possible causes of the issue at hand.
Maintenance and preventive car will help alleviate potential problems with any car stereo. All car stereos need a little maintenance to keep them performing the way they were meant to perform when they were initially installed.
1. All tape heads must be periodically cleaned, and there are kits available for this purpose. The kits may be purchased from auto departments at most chain stores; auto parts stores, or even the dealer if necessary. The kit usually contains an alcohol-based fluid, and cotton-covered swabs that resemble Q-Tips. Use one drop of the liquid on the cotton swab and gently wipe the tape heads for 2-3 seconds. This should be done after every 20 hours of tape play. This will keep road dirt, static electricity, and cigarette tar from gumming up the inner workings of the player.
2. CD players need maintenance as well. Some things to remember about CD players: skipping may be caused by fingerprints, dust, or scratches on the CD inserted into the player, so always be certain the playing surface is smooth and clean. To keep CDs clean, try using CD Saver by CRS. This kit provides a special cloth and a silica-based liquid to clean the surface of the CD. To clean the inside of a CD player, there are CDs that are made expressly for that purpose. Usually, these can be purchased at a dealership or auto parts store.
3. Speakers should be tightened from time to time, as they can attle loose from bumpy roads and general car vibration. Also check for debris on speakers that are mounted on the rear dash, facing upward. Road grit can accumulate, causing rattling and distorted sound. Also this grit and dust can get trapped between the speaker grill and the cone inside; if this is the issue, remove the speaker grill and use a hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove the offending particles. Replace the speaker grill and try the sound again. Also clean the speakers with a damp cloth or an Armor-All cloth and sound should return to normal.
4. If the stereo doesn't seem to be getting power, check the fuse box. Sometimes the fuse will burst from a power surge, or simply burn out. Changing a fuse is an easy task because the fuse box is usually located under the dash or in the glove box. Fuses are very inexpensive and are sold singly or in sets. Simply remove the fuse that is blackened, and match it to one of the new fuses purchased, place the new fuse into the fuse box and the radio should now have power.
5. Sometimes the sound may seem "thin" when the stereo is playing. This could mean that the left/right channel controls are out of phase. Reverse the leads on one speaker. If nothing else, the base response will dramatically increase.
6. Signal loss may occur if the antenna wire becomes loose or unplugged. Check under the cowl or front fender, and in some cars, the glove box. If the wire is connected, try disconnecting it and reconnecting it to be sure there is a clean, tight connection. Also, if this was a home installation, it is prudent to re-check any soldered or taped connections to be certain all wire still have a tight connection. One last thing to check on door speakers, see if the wire has been crimped or cut by the door. Often speaker wires can come loose and be tangled in the door threshold, causing distortion or loss of sound altogether.
7. If options 1-6 have been tried and there is still a problem with sound in a speaker, check to see if there is a short in the wire. If there is an uninsulated stretch of wire, or if the electrical tape has come loose, there could be dirt and loose wiring to blame. Something else to consider is that the uncovered wire may have touched other metal on the car, which is called grounding. In either case, clean the connection, re-twist wires together, and apply fresh electrical tape.
Diagnosing an ailing car stereo is fairly easy, but can be time-consuming. Remember, that 50% of car repair is patience. Go through the steps above in an attempt to identify and rectify the issue the stereo is having. Nothing is more frustrating that to pay a "professional" to do something that could have been done in the driveway at no cost. If all else fails, it might be time to go to a repair facility, or worse-the dealership.
This guide will prepare you to choose speakers to match your head unit. It covers the principles of peak and RMS power ratings, as well as channels and ohms
Selecting speakers to fit your car’s stereo can be a daunting process. Not only do you have to find a speaker that is the right size, but it is important to match the power of the speaker to the power of the amplifier or head unit. To further complicate matters, there are many different kinds of ratings for each speaker. Don’t worry; with this guide you should be able to decode the numbers.
The first power rating a speaker manufacturer will probably display is the max, or peak wattage rating. They do this because the peak rating is the absolute maximum amount of power that a speaker can handle for a very short duration of time. This power would only ever be reached at max volume during the peak of a song, and even then it would only last for milliseconds.
Max power can be very misleading; if you actually pushed this much power through the speaker for even a second it would blow. Hence, when you are selecting a speaker, you should try and match the peak power of the speaker to the peak power of the amplifier or head unit you are running. It’s OK if your speaker can handle more peak power than the amp can put out. In fact, this will ensure that you will not blow the speaker.
The other wattage rating of speakers is the RMS wattage. In the interest of simplicity we will say that the RMS is the average power that the speaker can handle over a sustained amount of time. At the loudest volume, your stereo would theoretically be putting out its RMS power for most of the song.
RMS power is the best measurement of power handling capabilities for a speaker. Make sure to match the RMS of your speakers to the RMS of your head unit or amplifier. Again, it’s perfectly fine if your speaker can handle more power than your head unit can produce, but not the other way around.
Now that you have a basic understanding of the lingo used to talk about speaker power ratings, it is important that you also understand how to determine the actual power coming from your head unit or amplifier.
When the manufacturer writes the wattage of an amplifier, they will usually write something like 80w peak x4. This means that 80 watts are pumped, at peak power, into four channels. A channel is a line to a speaker, commonly labeled as left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. The problem is that the 80 peak watts coming out of the head unit get split into 20 peak watts per channel. This means that each speaker only receives 20 peak watts. So when you select a speaker, you must select one that can handle at least 20 peak watts. If you have a two channel amplifier, the power only gets split two ways.
To further complicate the matter, most power ratings will also include a number followed by a horseshoe shaped omega symbol. This represents ohms, which is a measurement of resistance. The rating for your amp or head unit will probably read something like this: 80w peak x4 @ 4Ù (ohm symbol). This means that at a resistance load of 4 ohms, the amp will be produce 80 peak watts (20 per channel). The resistance of 4 ohms will be coming from your speaker. Hence, the best speaker choice will be one that has 4 ohms of resistance, and can handle 20 peak watts per channel.
It is generally not recommended to use a speaker with a different resistance rating than the amp that will be supplying it. However, if you do, keep in mind that if the resistance doubles (as with an 8 ohm speaker rather than 4), the wattage will be cut in half. Conversely, if the resistance is halved (a 2 ohm speaker instead of 4), the wattage will double.
If you keep all of this in mind as you are selecting a speaker, you should be able to make a good choice. Ideally, you will find a speaker that perfectly matches your head unit. If not, remember to always err on the side of too much power handling as far as your speakers are concerned.
Selecting speakers to fit your car’s stereo can be a daunting process. Not only do you have to find a speaker that is the right size, but it is important to match the power of the speaker to the power of the amplifier or head unit. To further complicate matters, there are many different kinds of ratings for each speaker. Don’t worry; with this guide you should be able to decode the numbers.
The first power rating a speaker manufacturer will probably display is the max, or peak wattage rating. They do this because the peak rating is the absolute maximum amount of power that a speaker can handle for a very short duration of time. This power would only ever be reached at max volume during the peak of a song, and even then it would only last for milliseconds.
Max power can be very misleading; if you actually pushed this much power through the speaker for even a second it would blow. Hence, when you are selecting a speaker, you should try and match the peak power of the speaker to the peak power of the amplifier or head unit you are running. It’s OK if your speaker can handle more peak power than the amp can put out. In fact, this will ensure that you will not blow the speaker.
The other wattage rating of speakers is the RMS wattage. In the interest of simplicity we will say that the RMS is the average power that the speaker can handle over a sustained amount of time. At the loudest volume, your stereo would theoretically be putting out its RMS power for most of the song.
RMS power is the best measurement of power handling capabilities for a speaker. Make sure to match the RMS of your speakers to the RMS of your head unit or amplifier. Again, it’s perfectly fine if your speaker can handle more power than your head unit can produce, but not the other way around.
Now that you have a basic understanding of the lingo used to talk about speaker power ratings, it is important that you also understand how to determine the actual power coming from your head unit or amplifier.
When the manufacturer writes the wattage of an amplifier, they will usually write something like 80w peak x4. This means that 80 watts are pumped, at peak power, into four channels. A channel is a line to a speaker, commonly labeled as left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. The problem is that the 80 peak watts coming out of the head unit get split into 20 peak watts per channel. This means that each speaker only receives 20 peak watts. So when you select a speaker, you must select one that can handle at least 20 peak watts. If you have a two channel amplifier, the power only gets split two ways.
To further complicate the matter, most power ratings will also include a number followed by a horseshoe shaped omega symbol. This represents ohms, which is a measurement of resistance. The rating for your amp or head unit will probably read something like this: 80w peak x4 @ 4Ù (ohm symbol). This means that at a resistance load of 4 ohms, the amp will be produce 80 peak watts (20 per channel). The resistance of 4 ohms will be coming from your speaker. Hence, the best speaker choice will be one that has 4 ohms of resistance, and can handle 20 peak watts per channel.
It is generally not recommended to use a speaker with a different resistance rating than the amp that will be supplying it. However, if you do, keep in mind that if the resistance doubles (as with an 8 ohm speaker rather than 4), the wattage will be cut in half. Conversely, if the resistance is halved (a 2 ohm speaker instead of 4), the wattage will double.
If you keep all of this in mind as you are selecting a speaker, you should be able to make a good choice. Ideally, you will find a speaker that perfectly matches your head unit. If not, remember to always err on the side of too much power handling as far as your speakers are concerned.
You can find out how to choose the best stereo for your car by reading this informative article!
The first thing to do is to check with your family members and friends to see what kind of stereo equipment they have in their vehicles. Referrals are sometimes the best way to find a reliable brand. The next step is to start shopping around in electronic stores to see what brands there are, what kinds of stereos are available for purchase, and what options are available. Be sure to check on what kind of a warranty that each stereo carries. Decide at this point what you want in a stereo and what you do not want. Decide what you would like to have, but what you can live without. For example, do you really need twenty radio preset buttons or can you live with only six? Beware of the extras that you may not need. If you are not going to use them, then do not buy a system with them on it. The more the gadgets, the higher the cost of the stereo, of course. Decide on how much money you can possibly spend. Talk to sales clerks and ask their opinions about the different kinds of stereos. Ask what kind they have in their own vehicles. Ask at each store whether-or-not they are authorized dealers of the products that they recommend. If your stereo needs repaired, can you take it back there and have it fixed?
Ask each sales clerk if they can demonstrate each of the models they carry? Obviously you will want to hear the differences in the stereos before you finally choose one and buy it. Find out if they will install the stereo too. Ask them the exact steps that they would take in order to accomplish the task. Find out if they have any pictures of their work. This especially pertains to the installation of the stereo's speakers ans subwoofers. If you purchase a stereo and speakers that are the same size as what you currently have, then the new equipment can simply be put into the same spaces that your current equipment is in. But, if you purchase bigger speakers that will need more space to accomodate them, then these units need to be enclosed first, and then covered with carpet to match your car, truck, or van.
Stereos for your vehicle usually start out with the basic AM/FM radio unit. That is the most basic stereo you can get. Then, there are models that also have cassette players and CD players, etc. Name brand stereos and speakers are probably the better route to take when choosing. You will undoubtedly get a better sound and performance from a name brand that you can trust. Stay away from cheap models that probably sound tinny, muffled, or otherwise unnatural. The cheaper brands tend not to hold up as well as the name brands too.
Finally, the sales people will probably try to talk to you about woofers and tweeters and frequencies, etc. To put it in plain English, the woofer handles the bass frequencies and the tweeter handles the treble frequencies. If you are really interested in this, that is fine. But, if you are not, then that is all you need to know. If you don't understand the lingo of the stereo world, don't let them baffle you with foreign sounding words, technical terms, and other information that you really don't need to know.
The first thing to do is to check with your family members and friends to see what kind of stereo equipment they have in their vehicles. Referrals are sometimes the best way to find a reliable brand. The next step is to start shopping around in electronic stores to see what brands there are, what kinds of stereos are available for purchase, and what options are available. Be sure to check on what kind of a warranty that each stereo carries. Decide at this point what you want in a stereo and what you do not want. Decide what you would like to have, but what you can live without. For example, do you really need twenty radio preset buttons or can you live with only six? Beware of the extras that you may not need. If you are not going to use them, then do not buy a system with them on it. The more the gadgets, the higher the cost of the stereo, of course. Decide on how much money you can possibly spend. Talk to sales clerks and ask their opinions about the different kinds of stereos. Ask what kind they have in their own vehicles. Ask at each store whether-or-not they are authorized dealers of the products that they recommend. If your stereo needs repaired, can you take it back there and have it fixed?
Ask each sales clerk if they can demonstrate each of the models they carry? Obviously you will want to hear the differences in the stereos before you finally choose one and buy it. Find out if they will install the stereo too. Ask them the exact steps that they would take in order to accomplish the task. Find out if they have any pictures of their work. This especially pertains to the installation of the stereo's speakers ans subwoofers. If you purchase a stereo and speakers that are the same size as what you currently have, then the new equipment can simply be put into the same spaces that your current equipment is in. But, if you purchase bigger speakers that will need more space to accomodate them, then these units need to be enclosed first, and then covered with carpet to match your car, truck, or van.
Stereos for your vehicle usually start out with the basic AM/FM radio unit. That is the most basic stereo you can get. Then, there are models that also have cassette players and CD players, etc. Name brand stereos and speakers are probably the better route to take when choosing. You will undoubtedly get a better sound and performance from a name brand that you can trust. Stay away from cheap models that probably sound tinny, muffled, or otherwise unnatural. The cheaper brands tend not to hold up as well as the name brands too.
Finally, the sales people will probably try to talk to you about woofers and tweeters and frequencies, etc. To put it in plain English, the woofer handles the bass frequencies and the tweeter handles the treble frequencies. If you are really interested in this, that is fine. But, if you are not, then that is all you need to know. If you don't understand the lingo of the stereo world, don't let them baffle you with foreign sounding words, technical terms, and other information that you really don't need to know.
This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.
The application of sound deadening material to your car is a very effective way to make your driving experience more comfortable. It will serve to keep out road and engine noise and keep the sound from your stereo inside the car. Asphalt based sound deadening generally comes in peel-and stick panels. This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.
Applying asphalt-based sound deadener is actually quite simple. Begin by removing any interior trim panels so that you have unobstructed access to the bare metal panels that you will be applying the material to. Before you do anything else, clean the surface well using an alcohol based cleaning product that will not leave a residue. Then, start by forming the material to the contours of the surface before you remove the adhesive backing. Using a heat gun or a high-powered hair dryer, heat the material and press it into the grooves of the metal until you are satisfied that it is in full contact with the floor. This is also a good time to trim the piece to fit and cut holes for any bolts or hardware that you may need access to. Allow the piece to cool, then pick it up and remove the adhesive backing. Line it up with the contours, then place it down gently. At this point do not try to adhere the whole piece at once. Instead, use a narrow roller to work from one side to the other, pressing the piece down into every contour. It may help to use the heat gun during this process. Any air bubbles after the piece is fully adhered should be poked through with a sharp blade, and then rolled out for maximum contact. If you need extra deadening, you can layer the material as many times as space will allow.
Trunk: If you have a subwoofer in your car, it is especially important to apply sound-deadening in the trunk. If you do it right, it will prevent annoying rattles and keep the sound pressure level from the sub from escaping through the trunk. Many manufacturers sell kits that contain a good amount of material for covering your trunk.
You should begin the application in the spare tire well and on the metal floor of the trunk. Work from one side to the other to avoid overlapping, and be sure not to cover up any hardware that will be necessary to secure the spare tire or the cargo floor. When you have finished the floor, peel back the carpet on the sides of the trunk and apply material there. If there are holes cut in the metal, you should cover these up if you do not think you will need access to them in the future. For the trunk lid or hatchback door, remove the panels to gain access to the metal inside. Apply liberally here, as sound tends to rise, but be sure that the extra weight of the material will not counteract the shocks that hold the trunk lid open.
Doors: Sound deadening the doors of almost any car will result in a noticeable improvement in sound levels, especially if your front speakers are located in the door. Not only does most of the road noise come in through the door, but the flimsy sheet metal of the door also acts as a poor acoustic surface, creating distortion in the sound of your stereo.
To counteract this, apply sound deadening to the metal inner skin of the door. You don’t necessarily have to cover everything, but be sure to get the holes and the thinnest parts of the sheet metal. The most important part of the door panels is the area surrounding the speaker. If you have enough clearance from the interior panel, apply a few layers here.
Floor: Applying a sound deadening material to the floor of your car will probably not help make your music any louder; however it will significantly reduce road noise and allow you to hear music and people in your car more clearly.
If you are going to deaden the floor, buy enough material to cover the entire metal. This is an involved process, since you probably should take out your seats and carpet in order to gain access to the whole area. The areas to focus on here are the fenders and the surrounding metal since most of the noise comes from the tires. While you’re doing the floor, it is a good idea to apply material to the engine firewall as well. This will reduce engine noise in the cabin.
The application of sound deadening material to your car is a very effective way to make your driving experience more comfortable. It will serve to keep out road and engine noise and keep the sound from your stereo inside the car. Asphalt based sound deadening generally comes in peel-and stick panels. This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.
Applying asphalt-based sound deadener is actually quite simple. Begin by removing any interior trim panels so that you have unobstructed access to the bare metal panels that you will be applying the material to. Before you do anything else, clean the surface well using an alcohol based cleaning product that will not leave a residue. Then, start by forming the material to the contours of the surface before you remove the adhesive backing. Using a heat gun or a high-powered hair dryer, heat the material and press it into the grooves of the metal until you are satisfied that it is in full contact with the floor. This is also a good time to trim the piece to fit and cut holes for any bolts or hardware that you may need access to. Allow the piece to cool, then pick it up and remove the adhesive backing. Line it up with the contours, then place it down gently. At this point do not try to adhere the whole piece at once. Instead, use a narrow roller to work from one side to the other, pressing the piece down into every contour. It may help to use the heat gun during this process. Any air bubbles after the piece is fully adhered should be poked through with a sharp blade, and then rolled out for maximum contact. If you need extra deadening, you can layer the material as many times as space will allow.
Trunk: If you have a subwoofer in your car, it is especially important to apply sound-deadening in the trunk. If you do it right, it will prevent annoying rattles and keep the sound pressure level from the sub from escaping through the trunk. Many manufacturers sell kits that contain a good amount of material for covering your trunk.
You should begin the application in the spare tire well and on the metal floor of the trunk. Work from one side to the other to avoid overlapping, and be sure not to cover up any hardware that will be necessary to secure the spare tire or the cargo floor. When you have finished the floor, peel back the carpet on the sides of the trunk and apply material there. If there are holes cut in the metal, you should cover these up if you do not think you will need access to them in the future. For the trunk lid or hatchback door, remove the panels to gain access to the metal inside. Apply liberally here, as sound tends to rise, but be sure that the extra weight of the material will not counteract the shocks that hold the trunk lid open.
Doors: Sound deadening the doors of almost any car will result in a noticeable improvement in sound levels, especially if your front speakers are located in the door. Not only does most of the road noise come in through the door, but the flimsy sheet metal of the door also acts as a poor acoustic surface, creating distortion in the sound of your stereo.
To counteract this, apply sound deadening to the metal inner skin of the door. You don’t necessarily have to cover everything, but be sure to get the holes and the thinnest parts of the sheet metal. The most important part of the door panels is the area surrounding the speaker. If you have enough clearance from the interior panel, apply a few layers here.
Floor: Applying a sound deadening material to the floor of your car will probably not help make your music any louder; however it will significantly reduce road noise and allow you to hear music and people in your car more clearly.
If you are going to deaden the floor, buy enough material to cover the entire metal. This is an involved process, since you probably should take out your seats and carpet in order to gain access to the whole area. The areas to focus on here are the fenders and the surrounding metal since most of the noise comes from the tires. While you’re doing the floor, it is a good idea to apply material to the engine firewall as well. This will reduce engine noise in the cabin.
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