AUDI NAVIGATION PLUS Removing Code unlock

Removing the code AUDI NAVIGATION PLUS

Connect the EEPROM Programmer to GND, 5_SDA and SCL_6 as you see in this image :

 

Then, read the Damp of your car radio and save it .
Now all you have to do is programming the car radio just as programming 24C16 eeprom with one of these Dumps :
Audi navigation plus all typs.zip
Damps for all types of audi navigation plus.
Audi navigation plus 014auz1z1b code 1191.zip
Dump for Audi navigation plus 014auz1z1b code 1191

Reset Sony car stereo with remote control

How do you reset Sony car stereo with remote control rm-x96?

Use your remote to inter this code MENU-ENTER-MODE-OPEN.  

Sony rm-x96 remote control

 

 

remote control rm-x96

How to decode Blaupunkt CAR 300 ?

Decoding Blaupunkt CAR 300 car radio unlock code

Hello, If you lost your Blaupunkt CAR 300 Radio code used in an Opel and it was put in safety after the change of a fuse or battery You can decode it by following this steps ; It is necessary to switch the car radio on then press at the same time on the button "AS" and the Power button, wait until the screen display four small dash then inter the code. For example if the code is 1256 with key 1 push once then with key 2  push twice and so on…

For more info about Blaupunkt CAR 300 car radio code unlocking see Blaupunkt section.

Related posts to car300 stereo codes:

• Mitsubishi radio code entry instructions
• Apple navigation system
• Vauxhall VDO CDR 2005 Code Entry Instructions
• Philips radio codes calculators free car stereo code
 

 

 

Code calculator for Renault radios Philips,VDO,Pioneer from PreCode

Renault precode calculator

The most powerful software to calculate car radio codes from serial number (precode) without opening the radio. It is able to calculate the codes for : Philips VDO,Pioneer,some peugeot and all what contain a PreCode... You need to provide the Pre-Code (security number) to the software  so that it calculates you the code. For example here the PreCode is: V248

Renault PRECODE usage description :

Run "CALC PHILIPS DE DOS.exe" and enter the last 4 digits from the barcode sticker of your radio usually 1 letter and 3 numbers. The code will appear below the precode.
Press q then ENTER to quit.
DOS based calc for "UPDATE List" not "TUNER List"  Written on front of radio ~ UPDATE List 

Download :

Renault-PRE-CODE-CALCULATOR(For Philips,VDO,Pioneer...)

Code calculator for Renault radios car audio

If you have any problems just leave a message and i'll help as much as i can.
Please post what year and car you try this with and if it works. And do not forget to donate please (:
What's a PreCode ?
- precode is a number behind the serial number or the bar-code it's like : TOA123 or X412 or Security ROA145

Related posts :

• mercedes radio codes download free Benz code calculators
• Acura Car radio Wiring Diagram
• General car radio wiring diagram

Sony Car Sterio CDX-M1000TF Code Entry Instructions :

Sony CDX-M1000 car radio Code Entry Instructions

When your car stereo is turned on the display will show[SECURITY CODE INPUT]followed by[0000] GGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
Input the code to your Sony stereo using the remote control handset 
Press [+] on your stereo until you reach the first digit required then press [SEEK] to enter
Press [+] on your car radio until you reach the second digit required then press [SEEK] to enter
Press [+] until you reach the third digit required then press [SEEK] to enter
Press [+] on your stereo until you reach the fourth digit required then press [SEEK] to enter
The clock will be displayed once finished. Press the [SOURCE] key to switch the car radio on.

Hear you can download The Manual.

Some Information for "Sony CDX-M 1000 TF" car stereo :

This stereo SONY CDX-M1000TF is easy to install, looks good and has a great sound. The TFT display is clear and there are some good graphics on there. It plays mp3 discs but does not have a mp3 jack to connect your ipod/mp3 player which these days is a downside. The only real negative is that the face doesn't come off.
It comes with a remote for people in the back to use or to change over when you're listening outside the automotive but other than that I can't see the point in it.
All in all a very good stereo ;)

Sony CDX-M630 Car Radio Code Entry Instructions

How to enter Sony CDX-M630 Radiocode

The code will be entered in with the remote control.
Press the small reset button at the top of the radios front panel before attempting to enter the code.
Then press the appropriate keys on the remote control.

There are 15 available codes (got them from Sony) and 1 will work for each specific stereo. I hope they work for some of you.

Use your remote control to inter one of these codes:
NB: You need to press reset after each attempt.


CODE 1: MODE SOUND OPEN ATT
CODE 2: ENTER OPEN menu 6
CODE 3: OPEN DISC+ 1 LIST
CODE 4: SEEK- SEEK+ 3 OPEN
CODE 5: OFF 4 OPEN SOURCE
CODE 6: 2 OPEN DSPL SOUND
CODE 7: OPEN 5 ATT SEEK+
CODE 8: DISC- DSPL OFF OPEN
CODE 9: SEEK+ SOUND OPEN ENTER
CODE 10: DISC- LIST SEEK- OPEN
CODE 11: OPEN 4 LIST OFF
CODE 12: DSPL SOURCE OPEN 1
CODE 13: MENU 2 MODE OPEN
CODE 14: 5 DISC+ OPEN ATT
CODE 15: 3 MENU SEEK- OPEN

Hear also the wiring for Sony cdx-m630 car radio if any one need it :
red - switched 12v
yellow - constant 12v
blue - control for amp/antenna
black - earth
gray - right front sp+
gray/blk - right front sp-
white - left front sp +
white/blk - left front sp-
violet - right rearsp+
violet/blk - right rear sp-
green - left rear sp+
green/blk - left rear sp-
This is the link to download the Sony cdx-m630 User Manual.

Sony CDX-M630 Car Radio Product Description:

Sony's Xplod CDX-M630 emulates the quality of a home stereo in the car. This receiver is packed with all the power that you've come to expect. The CDX-M630 features ABC tuner, RM-X4S option, CD text, CD-MD control and custom file control. It plays CD-Rs and CD-RWs as well as CDs, and has Sony's EQ7 to fine-tune the sound contour. Seven preset curves plus a 7-band equalizer help you get it just right.

The Sony CDX-M630 is a very simple design. Its look and size does tend to belay its ability though. The small control panel (Which flips down) is surprisingly easy to use and doesn’t hinder the operations. Sound quality is decent with CD-R / CD-RW support. The system comes with a remote, but it seems bulky in comparison to the rest of the unit. The faceplate also isn’t detachable, so you cant take it with you when you have to leave your vehicle.

Sony CDX-M850MP Car Radio Code Entry Instructions :

Sony CDX-M850 Stereo Code Entry 

Sony CDX-M850

When you switch on the car radio the display will show [ SECURITY CODE INPUT ]
Open the front panel by pressing the left hand button on the fascia.
The display will show [ CODE IN 0000 ]
Press the [ + ] Button until you reach the first digit required then press the [ SEEK ] key to enter
Press the [ + ] Button until you reach the second digit required then press the [ SEEK ] key to enter
Press the [ + ] Button until you reach the third digit required then press the [ SEEK ] key to enter
Press the [ + ] Button until you reach the fourth digit required then press the [ SEEK ] key to enter
The clock will be displayed once finished.

Press the [ SOURCE ] key to switch the radio on.

If you need help to unlock your Sony cdx m850 mp code, this is a DUMP for it :
Download from hear ----> Dump for Sony cdx m850 mp (Code 1979)

Now I will give you some details and characteristics about the Sony cdx m850 mp car radio :Without any buttons or controls to get in the way, the entire front panel becomes an exciting, full-motion fluorescent display with high-resolution graphics. In this mode, you use the supplied wireless remote to make all basic system changes.
Need to fine tune something? Push a button, and the faceplate motors down to reveal a smaller display and a full soft-touch control panel. Access the seven EQ presets and 7-band equalizer of Sony's EQ7 to adjust your sound.
The CDX-M850 will play your CDs, CD-Rs, CD-RWs, and even your long-playing MP3-encoded discs, while the top-of-the-line SSIR-EXA tuner locks in on stations near and far. If you love radio, add Sony's optional XM tuner and go wild with the innovative, diverse programming of XM Satellite Radio
If you need more entertainment the CDX-M850 will also control a Sony disc CD changer and you can hook up yet another source to the auxiliary input. Three sets of preamp outputs send a righteous 4-volt signal to any outboard amps in your system.
Details:

• Active Black Panel motorized fold-down faceplate
  
• full-motion fluorescent display
  
• plays CDs, CD-Rs, CD-RWs, and MP3-encoded discs
  
• CD/MD changer controls
  
• EQ7 (7-band equalizer and 7 preset tone curves)
  
• Dynamic Soundstage Organizer
  
• SSIR-EXA tuner
  
• 18 FM/12 AM presets
  
• seek tuning
  
• XM Satellite Radio controls (XM subscription, optional Sony XM tuner, and antenna required to receive the satellite radio signal) — service is available only in the lower 48 states, not available in Alaska, Hawaii, or U.S. territories
  
• 4-volt front and rear preamp outputs
  
• two 4-volt mono subwoofer outputs
  
• high-pass and low-pass filters
  
• CD text
  
• displays 8 characters of XM Satellite Radio info
  
• auxiliary input
  
• wireless remote
  
• clock
  
• 23.2 watts RMS/52 peak x 4 channels
  
• CD frequency response 10-20,000 Hz
  
• CD signal-to-noise ratio 90 dB
  
• FM sensitivity 9 dBf
  
• 1-year warranty

Code for SONY Model CDX-M500R , CDX-M600R , CDX-M700R , CDX-M800R :gg

If anyone have a problem with one of this SONY Models CDX-M500R , CDX-M600R , CDX-M700R And Possibly CDX-M800R, then hear is the solution :

Your car radio display : "CODE IN" but you can’t enter code from buttons. You need to solder three pins together on the underside of the main PCB to disable the code. These are accessible from under the radio so you don’t have to disassemble the unit. Look for an oversized vent hole below the white label.(view image)

You can also use the IR Remote control : SONY RM-X96 (view table instructions)

On the bottom of the unit is a window with three pair of contacts || || ||

Legend: O = Open Contacts , C = Closed Contacts.

TP3	TP2	TP1	code
O	O	O	Unknown
O	O	C	Unknown
O	C	O	Unknown
O	C	C	sound,mode,att,open (With the remote)
C	O	O	Unknown
C	O	C	menu,enter,mode,open (With the remote)
C	C	O	Unknown
C	C	C	No Code (Code Disabled)

SONY car radio Model CDX-M500R

SONY car radio Model CDX-M600R

SONY car radio Model CDX-M700R

SONY car radio Model CDX-M800R

Panasonic DMP-B15 Portable Blu-ray Player - Non-stop Entertainment

Panasonic DMP-B15 Portable Blu-ray Player - Non-stop Entertainment

Panasonic is well-known for its quality, value and innovation. They distribute high quality electronic products all around the world.

Recently, Panasonic has released a Blu-ray player -- DMP-B15, a portable 8-inch DVD player having features like a 16:9 wide LCD screen offering a unique style of watching.

Its free style watching ensures the screen to be swapped to a broader array of positions for watching. This DVD player has a large viewing area to enjoy DVDs more comfortably. This player can also be connected to an HD-Audio compatible AV receiver with a home theater speaker system and enjoy movies with outstanding surround sound. To accommodate the traveler, the DMP-B15 offers an optional headrest mounting bracket for in-car use.

This player has PHL Reference Chroma Processor Plus technology developed in collaboration with Panasonic Hollywood Laboratory is a high quality image-processing technology that precisely processes each pixel of the Blu-ray Disc video signal in the vertical direction which results in high image quality. It reproduces color data with twice the accuracy of conventional systems, resulting in faithful and sharp colors.

This device also includes VIERA CAST functionality -- a distinctive application that allows the user access to select Web sites, including Amazon Video-on-Demand, a streaming video service that permits the users to access more than 40,000 titles. Moreover, this B15 features an SD Memory Card slot that allows the users to view and share digital photos, as well as HD video recorded on a SD card like all other Panasonic Blu-ray players. Also this gadget has a long battery life too.

Audio Video Cables Installation

Audio Video Cables Installation

Cables and cords are essential to operating your favorite device. Component video separates the video signal into individual streams and these video streams are carried via three cables, colored red, and green and blue that normally comes bundled with RCA type jack connectors. Component video signals will provide better color resolution, purity and fidelity than S-Video and composite video signals.

For electronics like televisions, digital cameras and camcorders there are DVI cables, HDMI cables and S-video cables. Also, HDMI cables are used for content management. For example, a manufacturer would use it to enable service providers to control access to specific content.

DVI stands for Digital Video Interface, while HDMI stands for High-Definition Multimedia Interface.

Click Here!

The biggest difference between DVI and HDMI is that DVI is used solely for video and HDMI cables carry both the video and audio signals through one signal. There are RCA cables, which are also known as composite cables, which include one connection for video which is usually yellow and it includes parts for left and right audio channels, which are usually white and red respectively.

Audio video Cablesare higher quality analog video cables which are generally used in hooking up your television, VCR, DVD player, or similar to another video source, such as a computer. There are also component cables which are essentially providers of higher quality and better signal throughput.

The principle idea behind HDMI is the use of a single interconnects instead of several cables when connecting an audio video source, such as a set top box or DVD player and an audio and or video monitor, such as a plasma TV, over a single HDMI cable.

The use of a single HDMI cable that replaces the maze of cabling behind home entertainment centers is the primary advantage brought about by this new standard. This is not the case with DVI supports digital video only hence, a separate audio cable is needed to transport digital audio when a DVI cable is used.

Audio Video cables are used to hook up receivers, tuners, radios, stereos, micro shelf systems and speakers. Other cables that are also used in audio video equipment are optical cables which are used to transmit light as the signal and coaxial cables. For cords, some of most popular are actually wire harnesses which are used in cars to power a car stereo.

Read More here

Amplifier Troubleshooting

Please try these things before sending in your amplifier. By the numbers, 40% of all amps returned to us work just fine and there is a problem in the wiring or install.
You must have a DMM (Digital Muti Meter) and know how to use it.
If no: take it to someone who does.
If yes: thumb through the following scenarios

Amp will not come on (no lights):

Set DMM to DC voltage and check at the amp. You need to test with both (+ & -) leads on the amplifier Power terminals.

If over 12 volts: check both sides of the fuses in the amp.
If no or low voltage: ground the DMM (-) test lead to a good, clean, metal chassis ground in the vehicle and retest.

If over 12 volts now: problem is in the ground wire or connection (between the amplifier and its chassis ground).

If still no voltage: check both sides of the fuse by the battery.

NOTE: You cannot check a fuse by just looking. Fuses can be “bad” and not blown; especially the larger, cheap-ass, glass ones.

If blown or bad: replace and start beatin’ again!

If all is good with battery voltage, it is now time to check the remote (or turn on) wire. Check voltage at terminal of amp.

If no voltage: check voltage at head unit. You can also make a jumper from the main 12V+ connection to the remote terminal to see if the amp comes on. If it does, the problem is in the head unit remote output or remote wire between the head unit and the amplifier.

If all power wiring tests good, remove the amp from the vehicle and test with short jumper wires directly at the battery, using a jumper wire from amp 12V+ to the remote terminal, just as a “I need to make sure” final test. If it still doesn’t come on, it needs to be sent in.

Amp turns on but goes into protect:

Disconnect RCAs and speakers and try turning the amp on again.

If it still goes into protect with just power, ground and remote; the amp is bad.

If it is now on and not in protect: connect the RCA’s first.
If it goes into protect: the problem is in the cables or headunit. Change and retest.

If still not in protect: reconnect speakers
If it goes into protect: problem is in the speakers or wiring (most likely shorted [or grounded] wiring or burnt coils). Set DMM to 'ohms' and first test by shorting leads together. This number (usually in the .4 range) will be subtracted from any reading you get. Connect DMM leads to each speaker wire pair. If you have a short, reading same as touching the leads together, trace the wiring to find short.

If no short in wiring: test the speakers individually and eliminate problem.

If amp comes on (and not in protect) and has no output:

Check all settings. Turn deck on at low volume.
       Master/Slave switch in master position.
       Gain all the way up.
       Subsonic filter all the way down.
       Boost all the way down.
       X-over all the way up.

If still no sound: you will need to try an alternate input. The best is a signal generator right to the input of the amp. Alternately, you could use another radio wired in with temporary wiring right at the amp with a very short, known-working RCA cord.

If still no sound: try a known-working test speaker with very short wiring right to the amp terminals. If still no sound: amp is bad. This is a very rare failure but it can happen.

Amp has distorted output:

Same test as above. You need to eliminate all the variables.

If you are testing a stereo amp and you have the problem on one channel:

Swap RCA’s: if it changes sides, the problem is in the deck or RCA cables.

If same side: swap speaker outputs at the amp. If it changes sides, the problem is in the amp. If it stays on the same side, the problem is in the wiring or speaker.

Amp plays but has low output:

Check all settings. Turn deck on at low volume.
       Master/Slave switch in master position.
       Gain all the way up.
       Subsonic filter all the way down.
       Boost all the way down.
       X-over all the way up.

Turn up the radio. If problem remains:

Check voltage drop at amp power input terminals. Set your meter to DC voltage with the hold feature activated. If your meter does not have that feature you will need to watch it to see how low the voltage drops when it is trying to play loud. If voltage drops below 11 volts at any time, you need more battery/alternator power and or better wiring.

If voltage remains above 12 the entire time, you need to check the speakers.

Set meter to ohms and check the DC resistance of the speaker load. If it falls within the proper load for the amp, check the amp, hooked to known-working speakers. If new speakers work, the problem is in the speaker system. If it still has low output, you need to check the inputs as described above with a known-working deck and RCAs.

Amp plays but cuts off and on:

Attach volt meter to power and ground terminals at the amplifier.

Set the meter to peak hold (max/min) and display "minimum DC voltage".

Run the system until the amp shuts off and check the voltage. If voltage has dropped below 10 volts at any time, check all wiring.

Leave the meter positive on the battery wire and use a good, clean ground point on the vehicle and test again. If voltage has a higher reading than before, the problem is in the ground connection.

If it has the same voltage, work your way back to the battery; testing at any and all connection points. I.e. distribution blocks, capacitor, fuses, etc.

If at any point voltage goes up, you have found the voltage drop point.

Single vs. Multiple Drivers

There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach. For this, let's consider a scenario where the cone area of a single driver is equal to the cumulative cone area of multiple drivers: An example of this would be a single 10" woofer with an Sd of 50in^2 versus a pair of 8" woofers with an Sd of 25in^2 each.

The single driver advantage: Linearity. A single driver system isn't subject to the acoustic or electrical forces countering in phase--even if by a fraction of a degree--which typically occurs when multiple pistons share a common space or when multiple inductors share a common circuit.

The single driver disadvantage: It has been my observation that a single larger driver will typically exhibit higher equivalent air compliance (Vas) than the combined compliance of two smaller drivers. This can translate into higher Vb requirements.

The multiple driver advantage: Assuming that the motor structure is the same on both the 8" and the 10" model, the immediate advantage is twice the motor for every square inch of cone area, twice the power handling, and more end-impedance versatility.

The multiple driver disadvantage: As stated above, using multiple independently actuated pistons increases the risk of the electro-mechanical forces countering one another. This is particularly evident with high Qts drivers.

The Perfect Subwoofer Box

We often hear talk (specially in car audio) about certain boxes being RIGHT for certain woofers. Many folks talk like a given woofer wont even play at all if the box size is not exactly perfect!

What is perfect?

Manufacturers often recommend a certain box for their speakers.

Computer box programs can PICK the box size (or tuning) that works best(?) with the woofer if you input the Thiele/Small parameters.

Is the box size the manufacturer recommends perfect? How can it possibly be perfect when they don't even know what kind of car your installing the box into? We all know the car will change the sound (this is called transfer function)! How can they possibly choose the perfect box size? Many times the speaker manufacturers recommendation is chosen not for perfect sound but for an average that might work well in the average car. Many times they might recommend the box that's easiest to build for beginners or small (since many folks like woofs that work in small boxes) or sealed instead of vented because it is less likely for you to blow your speaker in a small sealed box than a large vented box! (if you blow your speaker (a) they might have to replace it. (b) the company might get a reputation for lousy speakers if they blow a lot) Sure, the manufacturers recommendation will probably sound great! But perfect??? Is the manufacturers recommended box size really right for you?

Is the box size provided by computer programs perfect? Again, how can it be unless they take into account the transfer function of the car??? I don't know of a current popular program that does! Most computer programs will calculate a box for you with the lowest response and with the least ripple. In car audio, this many times IS NOT the best! Sometimes (specially in SPL competitions) the ripple the computer program tries to avoid might actually be an SPL or bass boost! Or for an SQ car, a slight ripple (inaudible, an may likely be made up for by the cars transfer function) might get you much deeper bass... Is the computers recommendation the perfect box? Is the computer programs recommended box right for you?

How bout the difference in CUSTOM made boxes vs PREFAB boxes?

Most real car audio enthusiasts would never consider a PREFAB box, we all know the custom built boxes are far superior sounding... BUT ARE THEY REALLY?

From my experience there is a great amount of BADLY BUILT custom boxes being built! Built so badly in fact that for many cases a prefab box would be miles better!

A prefab box could be better than a badly built custom box! I have heard some darned good systems with prefab boxes and some very poor systems with custom built boxes.. It's important if your gonna pay high dollar for an installer to build you a custom box that the installer be good at building boxes or you might just as well have spent your money on a pre-fab and spent the left over money on something else.

PLUS, since we mentioned installers, how many really have any background in speaker design? Many claim to be experts, but in the real world most installers just build the so called custom boxes with no AUDIO PHYSICS in mind. So for a custom box, its important the installer be not only a carpenter but also an expert at loudspeaker box design... Or a pre-fab box might be the better choice! ;-)

And, in reality, there is no PERFECT box, and to really custom build a box to perform as good as possible in a given vehicle it requires huge stacks of expensive test equipment, lots of woodworking tools and saws, and building, testing then rebuilding and retesting, and rebuilding and retesting again and again and again until no more good is achieved. This is done only by a few crazy competition gurus or a few nutty hobbyists, certainly NOT for the average car audio guy, or even the average installer...

So, I think it would be safe to say most so called perfect boxes are no where near perfect, they can all be improved on. And even if they were perfect, putting them in a car will change them, even the direction the box fires in the car can have an effect!

And it makes me laugh when I hear a fellow say something like " the manufacturer recommends 1.5cu ft for this speaker, it wont work in 1.25cu ft!"

Sure it will!
If that's all the space you have,
build it,
play it,
enjoy it!

There are so many variables involved there is a chance the NON-PERFECT box might even sound better than the so called perfect one! Try it ;-)

Enjoy!

Mapping the Transfer Function

Putting a speaker in a vehicle (or room for that matter) will make the speaker sound different. This is caused by reflections, absorptions and resonance's that exist in that car. This change is called the transfer function.

All cars have a transfer function, typically the most noticeable change to speakers when placed in a car is MORE BASS. More bass is inherent because the car is like a box, an enclosed space that promotes reinforcing reflections of the bass sounds (because the bass waves are long enough to be reflected and still be close enough to in phase and reinforce)....

But the transfer function is more than just a change in bass, it also can cause major changes in the midrange speakers because of the major glass surfaces for the sound to bounce off of! Or the high frequency sounds from the tweeters can be absorbed into the headliner or car upholstery (intentionally sound absorbent by the car manufacturer to absorb road noise)...

So, we cant easily change the transfer function, but we can map it, and then build our system to take advantage of our cars transfer function.

To map the transfer function you will need a Speaker box, a CD with test tones or an audio test generator or a pink noise generator and a decibel meter. There are several CDs available with test tones, I prefer the tone generator but they are fairly expensive and hard to find an install shop with one, pink noise is OK but pink noise generators are probably just as hard to find as audio generators. And for a decibel meter Radio shack sells one for about $30 that will work. Oh, and a piece of graph paper to write down your results.

First, lets map the speaker box. Take your speaker box outdoors in the back yard and aim it away from the house to minimize reflections, hang the SPL meter or microphone for it a few meters in front of the speaker box. Fire up your test tones and set the volume level where the SPL meter gets a reading on most of your test tones (if the low ones don't register don't worry), but not too loud, we don't want to damage the test speaker! Now without touching the volume control, run your test tones and write down on your graph paper the SPL at each tone. You can even make a graph on the graph paper if you want to.

Your results is the frequency response of your test speaker!

Lets put this box in the car and do the test again and see what changes!

Set the test speaker in a nice location, preferably close to where the real speakers will go later. Hang the microphone in the center of the car near where your ears would be if you were driving, and run through the test tones again, reading the SPL meter and writing down the results on the graph paper.

When you done, subtract the back yard numbers from the in car numbers for each frequency and write down your results. For instance, if you had 90dB at 120Hz in the back yard and 95dB in the car then (95-90=5) write down 120Hz=+5dB, and do this for every frequency you mapped. Some frequencies may have negative numbers, this is OK... When your done, you should have a series of frequencies=numbers something like this: 20=+4, 40=+6, 80=+12, 120=+3, 200=0, 400=-3, 600=-4, and so on...

This is your transfer function, you can now look at any frequency and tell what
your car is going to do to ANY SPEAKER you install.

Simple....

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Poljoprivredni poslovni portal

Dual Battery Wiring

WIRE 1

This POS+ wire connects the two batteries' positive posts. This wire allows the rear battery to receive the charge from the alternator, just like the front battery receives. Without this wire, the rear battery would not maintain a charge.

WIRE 1 should be at least 1/0 awg wire. The reason why is that when batteries are connected together, they will instantly equalize in voltage. This can be hundreds of amps of current that is passed. Anything smaller than 1/0 awg wire is likely to be too small to transfer these high currents.

If you intend on pulling more than 300A of current across WIRE 1, you should add an additional run of 1/0 awg for each additional 300A of current you intend on pulling. So if you plan on pulling 600A, you would need two runs of 1/0 awg minimum. The more runs of 1/0 awg you have, the less voltage you can expect to lose due to resistance.

WIRE 2

This POS+ wire connects your amp(s) to your rear battery. This wire should be sized based on the input of your amp(s). If your amp has a 4 awg input, this should be a 4 awg wire. If your amp accepts 1/0 wire, then this should be a 1/0 awg wire.

If you decide that it is better for your setup, you can choose to use a distribution block between the battery's POS+ post and the amps' POS+ inputs. Some people prefer to use a distro block, but it is easier in my mind to simply run the wire directly from the POS+ post to each amp, in effect using the battery as the distro block. There is no right or wrong here, it is up to you to decide.

WIRE 3

This NEG- wire connects the two batteries' negative posts. This wire size should be identical to the size (and quantity) of WIRE 1. So, if you have two runs of 1/0 awg being used for WIRE 1, then you will need two runs of 1/0 awg for WIRE 3 as well.

Some people will argue that using the chassis instead of wire for your NEG- (grounds) connections is fine, but when you have multiple batteries, that is no longer going to be sufficient in most cases. If your car does not have one solid piece of steel running the length of the car, then you will have multiple pieces of steel that are welded together. Steel, as you well know, is a poor conductor when compared to copper (or other highly conductive metals). The conductivity of steel is highly reduced when welded together with another piece of steel. Imagine the weld as a speed bump.

Now the other issue here that is frequently overlooked is that as you begin to draw more current over a conductor, the impedance will actually rise. So simply measuring the resistance of your chassis without a current draw is pointless.

WIRE 4

This NEG- wire is to connect the NEG- connections on your amp to the NEG- post of the rear battery. It is important that this wire matches the size (and quantity) of WIRE 2. Again, just like with WIRE 2, the size of this wire should be determined by your amps' inputs.

Some people again would tell you to not wire this to the battery, but instead to the chassis. This would be OK if you did not have a rear battery and you had a very small amp. But since this discussion is assuming the rear battery is installed, you need to wire the NEG- connection for the amp directly to the battery.

WIRE 5

These wires are to ground each battery to the chassis for devices that may not have a NEG- wire running directly, but are still pulling power from the battery. A good example would be lights or other chassis grounded devices.

One last wire that is not shown, but would fall under the WIRE 5 category would be a wire from the front battery NEG- post to the engine block. This in essence would be the NEG- wire to the alternator, since the engine block is electrically connected to the alternator. If your alternator in fact has a NEG- post, of course the wire should connect there and not at the engine block.

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And now on to the fuses. Each fuse shown above serves a specific purpose. There are some people who live life on the edge and feel they are a waste of money. There are others who claim that they affect voltages in your vehicle. I am neither of these. I like feeling safe and secure knowing that my electrical system is protected by a fuse. These fuses will not only protect you from improper wiring, but also protect you in case of an accident that shorts out a POS+ wire. Also, good ANL fuses have very little added resistance, so the voltage drop across a fuse is usually not measurable.

FUSE A

This fuse should be located as close to the POS+ post of the front battery as possible. This fuse should be rated to match the current rating of WIRE 1. If you are using a single run of 1/0 awg wire for WIRE 1 and it is rated up to 300A, then FUSE A should be rated at the same 300A.

What FUSE A does is protect your wire from transferring more current (amps) than it is rated for. In the case of a short circuit in the middle on WIRE 1, the front battery will try to push all of it's energy through WIRE 1 to that short. When this happens, the amount of current will exceed the fuse value and cause the fuse to blow. When the fuse blows, the short is alleviated and no more current will pass along WIRE 1 from the front battery.

If the fuse would not have blown, the excessive amount of current would have exceeded the capacity of WIRE 1, which would have caused a fire.

FUSE B

This fuse does the exact same thing as FUSE A with the exception that it protects WIRE 1 from the current coming from the rear battery. If WIRE 1 were to be shorted, there is a potential for energy to flow from both batteries. A fuse on both ends of WIRE 1 is essential. Again it should be located as close to the POS+ post of the rear battery as possible.

And there is no reason to use only one of these two fuses here on WIRE 1. If you don't have both FUSE A AND FUSE B, then you are not protected from a short. So don't think that having one of the two is going to help you. Unless you have both, you are not protected at all.

FUSE C

This fuse is intended to protect WIRE 2 from to much current. Just as with WIRE 1 and FUSE A & B, you are going to match FUSE C with the current rating of WIRE 2. So if your amp accepts 4 awg wire, WIRE 2 should be 4 awg. If your 4 awg wire is rated up to 125A, then FUSE C should be 125A.

Choosing the Correct Port Tuning

Tuning of a ported subwoofer box is determined by a combination of port area, port length, and net volume of the subwoofer box. Tuning changes the frequency at which the frequency response peaks (is loudest) and can change the way a subwoofer box sounds in your setup. Your tuning choice will be determined by the goal of your system install.

If you're looking to achieve an SPL setup your car (getting as loud as possible), you'll want to tune fairly high. High tuning for SPL is usually somewhere around 45Hz or possibly higher. At this high of tuning, the sound quality will not be very good, but it will be louder than if you were to tune low.

A SQ (sound quality) based setup will call for a tuning fairly low - even down around 25Hz. This will also allow you to hit the ultra-low notes with your system. Lower-tuned boxes produce better sound quality, more like a sealed box. The downside to lower tuning is that it flattens the frequency response, which will cause the box to lack the boost around the tuning frequency.

To achieve a good mix between SPL and SQ with a ported box, we have found that it's good to be in the lower 30's for tuning. If you tune up around 35Hz, you'll get a fair amount of SPL out of the box and still have fairly good sound quality. If you tune closer to 30, the box will yield better sound quality but have a little less output than the 35Hz. A range between 30 and 35 Hz is generally good for most general setups.

If you want SPL, tune high. If you want SQ, tune low. If you want somewhere in-between the two, we have found a good tuning is right at 33Hz. This is why we default the port tuning to 33Hz on our customization pages for our ported enclosures. When choosing a ported subwoofer box, the freedom to tune the enclosure is a great way to get your system sounding the way you want it to sound.

Quad DVC Subwoofer Wiring

Parallel/Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Four 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 0.5 ohm amplifier load
* Four 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load

Series/Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Four 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = .5 ohm amplifier load
* Four 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load
* Four 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Four 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load

Parallel/Series DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Four 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Four 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load
* Four 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 8 ohm amplifier load
* Four 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 16 ohm amplifier load

Triple DVC Subwoofer Wiring

Parallel/Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Three 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 0.67 ohm amplifier load
* Three 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1.33 ohm amplifier load

Series/Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Three 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 0.67 ohm amplifier load
* Three 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1.34 ohm amplifier load
* Three 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2.67 ohm amplifier load
* Three 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 5.36 ohm amplifier load

Parallel/Series DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Three 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1.125 ohm amplifier load
* Three 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2.18 ohm amplifier load
* Three 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2.45 ohm amplifier load
* Three 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2.82 ohm amplifier load

Dual DVC Subwoofer Wiring

Parallel/Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Two 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 0.25 ohm amplifier load
* Two 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 0.5 ohm amplifier load
* Two 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load
* Two 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load

Series/Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Two 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load
* Two 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Two 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load
* Two 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 8 ohm amplifier load

Parallel/Series DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Two 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load
* Two 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Two 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load
* Two 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 8 ohm amplifier load

Single DVC Subwoofer wiring

Parallel DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* One 1 ohm DVC subwoofer = 0.5 ohm amplifier load
* One 2 ohm DVC subwoofer = 1 ohm amplifier load
* One 4 ohm DVC subwoofer = 2 ohm amplifier load
* One 8 ohm DVC subwoofer = 4 ohm amplifier load

Series DVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* One 1 ohm DVC subwoofer = 2 ohm amplifier load
* One 2 ohm DVC subwoofer = 4 ohm amplifier load
* One 4 ohm DVC subwoofer = 8 ohm amplifier load
* One 8 ohm DVC subwoofer = 16 ohm amplifier load

Quad SVC Subwoofer Wiring

Parallel SVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Four 2 ohm SVC subwoofers = 0.5 ohm amplifier load
* Four 4 ohm SVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load
* Four 8 ohm SVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load

Series SVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Four 1 ohm SVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load
* Four 2 ohm SVC subwoofers = 8 ohm amplifier load
* Four 4 ohm SVC subwoofers = 16 ohm amplifier load

Triple SVC Subwoofer Wiring

Parallel SVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Three 2 ohm SVC subwoofers = 0.67 ohm amplifier load
* Three 4 ohm SVC subwoofers = 1.33 ohm amplifier load
* Three 8 ohm SVC subwoofers = 2.67 ohm amplifier load

Series SVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Three 1 ohm SVC subwoofers = 3 ohm amplifier load
* Three 2 ohm SVC subwoofers = 6 ohm amplifier load
* Three 4 ohm SVC subwoofers = 12 ohm amplifier load

Dual SVC Subwoofer wiring

Parallel SVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Two 1 ohm SVC subwoofers = 0.5 ohm amplifier load
* Two 2 ohm SVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load
* Two 4 ohm SVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Two 8 ohm SVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load

Series SVC Subwoofer Wiring:

* Two 1 ohm SVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Two 2 ohm SVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load
* Two 4 ohm SVC subwoofers = 8 ohm amplifier load
* Two 8 ohm SVC subwoofers = 16 ohm amplifier load

Single SVC Subwoofer Wiring

SVC Subwoofer Wiring

* One 1 ohm SVC subwoofer = 1 ohm amplifier load
* One 2 ohm SVC subwoofer = 2 ohm amplifier load
* One 4 ohm SVC subwoofer = 4 ohm amplifier load
* One 8 ohm SVC subwoofer = 8 ohm amplifier load

Hifonics Release 09/10 range of Brutus Amps

Maxxsonics' new Hifonics Brutus amplifier line up offers the most versatile and comprehensive Super D-Class series than ever before.

For years, Brutus BXI amplifiers have been recognized the world over as some of the best subwoofer amplifiers in their class. The new Brutus amps are 1-Ohm stable, but also run at 4- or 2-Ohms for a much tighter bass response.

Simply put, watt for watt, a Brutus amplifier produces more output with less impact on a car’s battery and charging system, than many other amps available today. Translated into cost, that’s more wattage output with less battery current used, equaling more watts per dollar.

For SPL, nothing compares to the Super D-Class grade microprocessors developed exclusively by Hifonics. In relying on this super-speed enhanced chip-set, Brutus BXI amplifiers offer higher current capacities and more precise digital to analog conversion. The result is very low distortion, even at high listening levels. For high performance sound, Hifonics doesn’t miss a beat by also including a Brutus A/BClass amplifier in the line.

According to John Studley, Vice President Product Development, “Our Brutus amps not only sound great, but look great with an extruded aluminum chassis and an illuminated Hifonics logo. We spend just as much time and detail on the technology of our products as we do on the exterior.” Studley concluded by saying, “Even the Hifonics logo was designed so that it has a soft haloed illumination that is tasteful and not distracting.”

See the Brutus series and complete line up from Hifonics at the Maxxsonics booth, North Hall 1809 at CES.

MODEL/ RMS POWER /MSRP

A/B-Class

BXI610 1 x 150 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 300 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 600 W @ 1 Ω $449.95

D-Class

BXI1210D 1 x 450 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 900 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 1200 W @ 1 Ω $649.95

BXI1610D 1 x 550 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 1100 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 1600 W @ 1 Ω $799.95

BXI2010D 1 x 650 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 1300 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 2000 W @ 1 Ω $999.95

BXI2610D 1 x 850 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 1700 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 2600 W @ 1 Ω $1199.95

Understanding The Basic Car Audio Capacitors

The audio system in our cars is an assortment of different parts. Each and every part in the system performs a specific function. It is with the co-ordination of all the parts, that you can hear the system play those fantastic tracks as you drive along. In the entire system, car audio capacitors have a significance of their own.

What are car audio capacitors?

Car audio capacitors are basically power storages in the car. These capacitors accumulate that power which is essential for the amplifier to produce great sounds. You can hear the booming bass sounds and songs with that much needed punch only because of audio capacitors. Car audio capacitors are also known as stiffening capacitors.

More on car audio capacitors

• Audio capacitors accumulate power whenever it is not required. This power is released when the demand for power exceeds the supply capacity of the power system of the car.

• Audio capacitors are necessary to supplement the regular power supply of the car in order to ensure the smooth functioning of the amplifier. Car audio capacitors usually range from 0.5 farads to 3 farads.

• You have to install a car audio capacitor that complements your amplifier. It is also necessary to place the capacitor as near as possible to the amplifier. For 500 RMS of power output, it is necessary to have an audio capacitor of 0.5 farads.

• There are also digital audio power capacitors. These can also be installed in cars. A digital audio capacitor (usually from 1.5 farads) consists of a turn on and turn off circuitry along with a 24-volt DC.

If you car lights dim when your car audio system produces a deep bass note, then your amp will be greatly helped with a car audio capacitor.

How do I know I need A Capacitor?

Before installation, it's often difficult to predict whether or not a capacitor will be beneficial to you. It's generally best to install the audio equipment prior to making the determination, so that you can address which symptoms need to be remedied and assess the severity of the symptoms. This will not only help you decide whether or not you need a capacitor, but also how much capacitance would be beneficial.

The most common symptom in need of added capacitance is headlight dimming (and sometimes dimming of the interior/dash lights). It's caused by a drop in system voltage associated with excessive current draw. While there may indeed be several loads drawing substantial amounts of current from the electrical system (eg. heat, AC, and so forth), it's usually the transient draws that best manifest themselves in noticeable dimming. This is partly because our visual systems are most sensitive to detecting rapidly changing intensity levels rather than steady absolute differences.

Once you've assessed whether or not the dimming is noticeable (and sufficiently annoying), you must decide whether a capacitor is warranted or if you'd be better served by upgrading the alternator.After initially having your alternator and battery checked out (some places will do this for free), the choice should be based on the severity of the dimming.

A commonly-used estimate for determining the appropriate size capacitor is 1F/kW (one farad per kilowatt). For example, a system running at300W would need a 0.3F (or 300,000uF) capacitor. However, there are several variables at play here, including the capabilities of the vehicle's electrical system (which generally varies from idle to higher RPMs), the efficiency of the amplifiers, and the listening habits of the user (ie. the tone controls and the type of music).

These factors should all be considered when making the determination. Moreover, the voltage drop can be so severe that added capacitance is nothing more than a band-aid. That is, even several Farads of capacitance would not be able to sustain the voltage for as long as the drop persists. This Is when an alternator upgrade may be in order.

How to wire a capacitor?

You can refer to a recent post on wiring Here

Planning Your Audio System

This part of the game can be fun or disappointing depending on what you can do. First I'm going to give you an example system that I believe includes everything you need to have a pretty good system. After that I will show you how to make compromises and leave out parts that may not be as important to you to keep your system within your budget. If you want to go beyond my basic system you probably already know more than what this site can tell you. Also, you do not have to get everything at once. I put my system together over a few years. With a little planning you can upgrade your system in steps and that way its like getting a new system every time you change something instead of getting everything at once!

Basic System: This is my opinion only but I think that a good system should start off with a good head unit that either has a CD player and/or is connected to a CD changer. A good system sounds best when playing CDs, tapes just do not cut it. Next I think component sets are made with fewer compromises than coaxial speakers so I suggest getting a good mid-range/tweeter set for the front. Head units generally do not put out enough clean power so you will want an amp to drive the component set. In the rear where you only need some "fill" for ambiance you can get away with cheaper coaxials and set their level lower than the fronts to keep the sound stage in front. A modest (50x4) 4 channel amp is a good choice here for powering the component set up front and the rear speakers. You could use a good 2 channel amp and run the front and back in parallel on the amp but it would harder to adjust the level between them. Mid-ranges sound best when they do not play bass so you will want a 2 way electronic crossover and use the high pass output to drive your 4 channel amp. I did not forget the bass! Most people are happy with a single 10" woofer or a pair of 12"s. Use an appropriate enclosure and a big amp (at least 75x2, preferably even more). Throw in installation and wiring accessories (like fuses and distribution blocks). Here's an approximate price break down of what this costs in my area. Your prices may be significantly different.

• head unit: $300-$500
  
• 4 channel amp for highs: $250-$400
  
• 2 channel amp for lows: $300-$700
  
• sub(s) (1-10" to 2-12"): $150-$450
  
• enclosure for sub(s): $0 (free air) - $250 (custom)
  
• component set: $200-$500
  
• coaxials for rear fill: $100-$400
  
• crossover/equalizer: $100-$500
  
• wiring and accessories: $50-$250
  
• installation: $0 (do it yourself) - $100 (basic)

This comes out to $1450-$3950! I realize that this is a lot of money and that most people do not spend nearly this much money on their car stereo. However, the things listed above are what I feel is necessary to have a system with only a few compromises. If you are less concerned about highs, get coaxials in front instead of the component set and power them off of the head unit and use some bass blockers on them. This will save you about $400. Getting a bargain head unit can save you some money as well. If you are really not into bass much you can forgo all the bass related equipment and run your component set full range. This will still give you clean sound but not much bass. However, you will save $550-$2300. I would start with what I have listed above and take out parts you do not care about as much. Only you know what kind of system you can be happy with.

Please do not email me asking for recommendations about specific brands. There is a lot of equipment out there that I have not used so I will not comment on them. I am happy with the components that I have but that is as far as I can go with recommendations. When buying equipment try to spend time listening to it before you buy, especially with speakers. Also try to use equipment that is similar to yours when listening in a store. As for amps, it costs money to build a good amp so if you see some awesome price on an amp you have never heard of, it is probably a piece of junk. Stick with good names with amps.

Finally, if you are on a budget (aren't we all?) it works better to upgrade in steps. The most important thing is to have a car audio system that sounds good to you not someone else. If you are happy with just changing the factory speakers and stopping there then just do that. There is a level when that new amp or speaker is not going to make a difference so it is not necessary to always upgrade. There are people who think my system is terrible but it works well enough for me and anything else I do to it would be a minor gain and not worth my trouble. Do not let a salesperson talk you into something you do not need! Good luck!

Pioneer AVIC-F900BT - Navigation Review

The Latest Version Of The AVIC Is Loaded With Features At A Budget Price

MSRP: $1,100
A few months ago I had the opportunity to testdrive the new AVIC F-series of navigation/multimedia source units in one of the various demo vehicles that Pioneer arranged for the press preview. The F-series basically replaces the D line, which ended with the D3. Like the latter, the new products are priced low enough that, value-wise, it would be a much better deal for people who want navigation to buy an AVIC F than one of the PNDs from the big three nav makers. After all, the AVIC-F900BT is superior in many ways to the D-series and costs only a little over a grand, for which you get a lot of built-in media functionality, along with the navigation.

There were some glitches in the pre-production models at the preview- some of the same issues some users have experienced with the production models. But the new AVICs seemed very promising, and I looked forward to having the chance to use one of various source units in the line.

Affordable All-In-One

Ostensibly, the AVIC-F900BT that I received for review is the complete package. The double-DIN unit with a 5.8-inch touchscreen has map data (from TeleAtlas) completely contained on a flash drive. A lot of nav users will be glad to hear that DVD-ROMs are no longer necessary. So you have navigation, DVD playback, and music galore via disc, iPod, a thumb drive, or an SD card, not to mention HD Radio and satellite radio with adapters, which have to be purchased separately. Conveniently, there's also a mini-jack connection on the face of the source unit. The 3.5mm mini-jack aux input is a great feature, but that too requires Pioneer's CD-RM10 cable in order for you to connect an A/V device to the unit.

This AVIC also has you covered for Bluetooth. You can connect three phones and the F900BT will store 400 contacts; it allows you to be totally hands-free. That applies for accessing music from your iPod as well. The F900BT has voice recognition software (called the VoiceBox Conversational Voice Search Platform) that makes it possible for you to select music folders and tracks by voice command. As with a lot of voice command systems, it can have problems understanding your requests. Be it the Ford Sync, the AVIC-Z3, or a separate aftermarket Bluetooth kits-I've yet to find a product that works as advertised in terms of the voice recognition quality. In theory, you can make calls, select tracks off your iPod, and even make some navigation commands just by using your voice. It's not perfect, but it's better than not having the option. Caveats or not, the above features are a pretty amazing collection of options. They may be found on other pre-existing (and separate) products, but at $1,100, this seems to be a real steal.

Add the option for MSN Direct for traffic information, movie time listings, and a list of the gas stations with the best per gallon prices and more, and you can see why I say that the F900BT is the complete package. MSN Direct is a must-have. And the GOOG-411 service is a nice add-on feature. You can use it to search for and connect to local businesses via a toll-free number. The only thing that is important to me that the unit lacks is the ability for DVD-Audio or, say, SACD playback. But then when was the last time you actually bought a disc in one of those formats? OK, not big misses there. On the audio side, the F900BT takes care of business, and will probably be robust enough for most music fans. There are seven preset EQ curves; and you can make a couple of your own custom EQ settings. There's also a three-band parametric EQ that allows you to select the Q factor, a highpass filter, adjustable loudness, and SLA (source level adjustment) to keep your volume settings consistent over different sources.

Navigating Potential

The main selling point for most consumers, of course, is going to be the navigation. The map data covers the U.S., including Alaska and Hawaii (and Canada) on a 2GB flash drive. That contains the usual list of POIs as well. The graphics are fine and the lane departure indicator is terrific, but the voice guidance could have provided faster alerts to turns on surface streets and exits off freeways, for example. But the bigger problem was that accessing data can test your patience. Searching for a POI "around the current GPS location" requires a wait of a few seconds to get to the next menu window. Also, I looked for Nixon's library locally as a tourist attraction, but it wasn't listed on the search result. When I typed it in on another search I finally got the address. So there are some things you might think should be more intuitive than it is; however, I should add that I find this kind of problem a lot with various nav devices. What compounds the issue of an already slow system is something more fundamental: I counted anywhere from 30 to 60 seconds for the system to load when I started the car. The only thing I could do during that time was insert a CD and adjust the volume. Whether or not this is a big deal will depend on your level of patience. I just don't happen to have a lot of it.

There are issues such as the above that make what was potentially an amazing product a decent product instead. The lesser-than-average visibility of the monitor, especially during the day, the average touchscreen responsiveness and the flat, difficult-to-use volume knob also detract from what was a great concept: a multimedia navigation unit priced for the masses. Early adopters of the AVIC F-series have encountered problems with the Bluetooth, iPod functionality, and the system loading time. On the F900BT, I experienced dropped calls as well. To address the different problems Pioneer released a firmware update. You can go to the company's website, www.pioneerelectronics.com and go to the navigation section. There are explicit directions for downloading the firmware and for loading it via SD card to your F900BT or other F-series unit (the F500BT is excluded). You'll find that it will improve the performance of a product, making it that much more worth the price. And ultimately, at this price point (and that is the point) there isn't another product with as much to offer and that is as easy to use while being so feature-rich. The question is: How much is too much for a product with great and various capabilities that are countered by some functionality issues? There are always value or quality trade-offs when you buy things. I would suggest you go for your own testdrive to determine if the new AVIC is worth it for you. I should note that the latest shipment of AVICs have the firmware included, which should make your decision to buy a little easier.

Key Features

5.8-inch touchscreenMap data on flash driveVoiceBox for voice control of iPod and BluetoothMSN Direct (with subscription)Satrad (Sirius or XM) and HD Radio readySteering wheel control compatibility (optional, requires separate interface)DVD playbackSix-channel preamp outputs (front, rear, subwoofer)May need firmware update