Alpine is revolutionizing the car-audio market with the introduction of the industry's first car sub woofers systems based on Linear Array Transducer (LAT) technology. Introducing one of the two new Powered LAT Subwoofer Systems, the PLV-7. The PLV-7 integrates Alpine's new advanced digital switching amplifier with a radically new form factor loudspeaker, all housed within a cutting-edge enclosure.The LAT subwoofers, paired with Alpine's new PDX digital amplifiers, have been engineered with a patent-pending Ultra Reflex enclosure design. Each individual component of the PLV-7 was specifically designed from the ground up to achieve optimum performance for the car audio market. The resulting systems deliver ground-pounding, tight bass with no mechanical vibration and clean, accurate control for an exceptionally powerful and uncompromised sound experience.You no longer have to sacrifice car storage space, thanks to the system's exclusive compact design. The PLV-7 has a built-in 500-watt RMS digital switching mono amplifier and features six 7-inch cones that produce the same output as two 12-inch subs while using 30 percent less space.
One of the best things you can do for your car audio system is to properly tune it. There are several variables to consider when doing this, and I am going to walk to through the most important ones so you will have a good understanding of how to get the most "bang" for the buck from you system.
Assuming you have an amplified system with one or more subwoofers, you can dial in your system to give you the best sound and have the durability you want from it. It starts at the head unit. You want a head unit with a good, strong output signal, between 4 and 5 volts on its pre-outs. Audiphiles tell us that 2-3 volts of good clean signal is good too, but that will require a little more amplifier power to get the decibels we're looking for. You also want a head unit with an adjustable subwoofer level. Start by tuning the stereo without the subs on. Add your bass and treble until you get the desired sound with minimal distortion at the loudest volume setting you will listen to it at. This is generally about 2/3 max volume. Once you are happy with the low/mid/high sound from the multirange speakers, we can add in the subs. If applicable, tune the sub outputs to about 2/3 maximum, and head to the amp. Start at the amp and adjust the frequency and the level to minimum, and turn the volume up to the the same loudest point we were working with earlier. Pull your frequency to about half way, and slowly adjust the power level upwards. If you hit the zone you want, stay there. Keep in mind, this is only a safe adjusting technique with a speaker system that matches the power output of the amplifier. If you want more from your system, incrementally adjust the frequency down slightly with the increases in power level. Your goal is to get a loud, clear bass from the subs that DOES NOT CLIP OUT under the loudest conditions you anticipate. If the amp clips out, then adjust the power level lower until it is back in the safe zone. Once the system is set where you want it, don't mess with it. Leave the levels on the head unit and the amp alone. The mistake I see with blown speakers and amps is trying to show them off with all the levels maxed out. This produces a lot of power at a high distortion level, which is damaging to the speakers and the amplifier. If you want a louder sound than what you have by tuning your system this way, it may be time to upgrade.
If you find you need help tuning your car audio system, contact Majestic Modifications by emailing support@majesticmodifications.com.
Brought to you by the sound experts at Majestic Modifications Auto Parts and Accessories.
Assuming you have an amplified system with one or more subwoofers, you can dial in your system to give you the best sound and have the durability you want from it. It starts at the head unit. You want a head unit with a good, strong output signal, between 4 and 5 volts on its pre-outs. Audiphiles tell us that 2-3 volts of good clean signal is good too, but that will require a little more amplifier power to get the decibels we're looking for. You also want a head unit with an adjustable subwoofer level. Start by tuning the stereo without the subs on. Add your bass and treble until you get the desired sound with minimal distortion at the loudest volume setting you will listen to it at. This is generally about 2/3 max volume. Once you are happy with the low/mid/high sound from the multirange speakers, we can add in the subs. If applicable, tune the sub outputs to about 2/3 maximum, and head to the amp. Start at the amp and adjust the frequency and the level to minimum, and turn the volume up to the the same loudest point we were working with earlier. Pull your frequency to about half way, and slowly adjust the power level upwards. If you hit the zone you want, stay there. Keep in mind, this is only a safe adjusting technique with a speaker system that matches the power output of the amplifier. If you want more from your system, incrementally adjust the frequency down slightly with the increases in power level. Your goal is to get a loud, clear bass from the subs that DOES NOT CLIP OUT under the loudest conditions you anticipate. If the amp clips out, then adjust the power level lower until it is back in the safe zone. Once the system is set where you want it, don't mess with it. Leave the levels on the head unit and the amp alone. The mistake I see with blown speakers and amps is trying to show them off with all the levels maxed out. This produces a lot of power at a high distortion level, which is damaging to the speakers and the amplifier. If you want a louder sound than what you have by tuning your system this way, it may be time to upgrade.
If you find you need help tuning your car audio system, contact Majestic Modifications by emailing support@majesticmodifications.com.
Brought to you by the sound experts at Majestic Modifications Auto Parts and Accessories.
For some, the prospect of changing out speakers is a daunting one, since you have to remove the door panels to access the speakers tucked away within its walls. They are not a tricky as they seem, if you know the right techniques. 
The first thing to do is to locate any screws holding the panel in place. These are generally found in or under the armrest piece, in the door opener latch, or near the bottom of the door panel. Remove as many as you can find to start.
With the screws removed, you will need to carefullfy pry the door panel off the door. Start in the bottom corner nearest the speaker. Gently pull the panel until it pops loose. There are usually several clips holding it in place. Work around the bottom of the door panel popping the clips out. Be careful to not break them, because you will beed them to reinstall it. Continue around the outside of the panel until you have removed as many of the clips as you can. If you have power windows, doors, etc, remove the control panel from the door panel. It is usually clipped in place, and can be carefully pried out. Look for small notches that may give away the position of the clips. If you have mechanical windows, you will need to push the door panel into the door at the window crank, and look for the snap ring clip holding it in place. With a thin flathead screwdriver, pop the clip loose, taking special note of where it goes, as you will need it to secure the piece back in place. Once this is removed, you should have enough clearance to reach the speaker. If not, you can attempt to completely remove the door panel by sliding it upwards and out of the window compartment. You may be caught up by the door opener latch. These can be a little tricky, as some will slide in place horizontally, screw in, or pop out. Look for screws, and if you don't find any, try sliding it horizontally towards the inside. If that doesn't work, see if it pops straight out. it will be connected to the bars that pull the door latch, so they will have to be positioned correctly for the door panel to be removed. If there is a triangular piece of trim in the top corner of the door panel, you will need to remove it also. It also clips in place and can be removed. This should allow the door panel to slide out, assuming you have disconnected the control panels electrical wires.
You should now be in full view of the door speakers. It can be removed by removing the four screws holding it in place. You may also find that the connectors on these speakers won't work for your aftermarket ones, so you will have to clip the wires and attach the end connectors provided with your speakers. Pay attention to positive and negative here. if you are unsure of what is what, there are a few ways to check. Look at the terminals on the factory speaker. it may have a "+" and "-" sign designating positive and negative. If it doesn't tell you, you can log on to installdr.com and look up the color codes for the speaker, or try the battery test. Take a good charged battery and place one of the factory speaker wires on the positive, and one on the negative of the battery. If the speaker pushes out, the polarity is correct as you have it, and attach the wires accordingly. If it pushes in, the polarity is reversed, so reverse the batter and try again. If it pushes out, wire the speakers following that polarity.
Install the speaker in the door by replacing the 4 screws and securing it in place, and reinstalling the door panel. be sure to slide it back down in place, and line up the clips exactly before applying pressure to reattach them. You don't want to break any of those. Finish screwing the door in place, then attach the window control panel/window crank, and congratulations, your done!
If you run into problems with your door panels, you can contact us at support@majesticmodifications.com for assistance.
The first thing to do is to locate any screws holding the panel in place. These are generally found in or under the armrest piece, in the door opener latch, or near the bottom of the door panel. Remove as many as you can find to start.With the screws removed, you will need to carefullfy pry the door panel off the door. Start in the bottom corner nearest the speaker. Gently pull the panel until it pops loose. There are usually several clips holding it in place. Work around the bottom of the door panel popping the clips out. Be careful to not break them, because you will beed them to reinstall it. Continue around the outside of the panel until you have removed as many of the clips as you can. If you have power windows, doors, etc, remove the control panel from the door panel. It is usually clipped in place, and can be carefully pried out. Look for small notches that may give away the position of the clips. If you have mechanical windows, you will need to push the door panel into the door at the window crank, and look for the snap ring clip holding it in place. With a thin flathead screwdriver, pop the clip loose, taking special note of where it goes, as you will need it to secure the piece back in place. Once this is removed, you should have enough clearance to reach the speaker. If not, you can attempt to completely remove the door panel by sliding it upwards and out of the window compartment. You may be caught up by the door opener latch. These can be a little tricky, as some will slide in place horizontally, screw in, or pop out. Look for screws, and if you don't find any, try sliding it horizontally towards the inside. If that doesn't work, see if it pops straight out. it will be connected to the bars that pull the door latch, so they will have to be positioned correctly for the door panel to be removed. If there is a triangular piece of trim in the top corner of the door panel, you will need to remove it also. It also clips in place and can be removed. This should allow the door panel to slide out, assuming you have disconnected the control panels electrical wires.
You should now be in full view of the door speakers. It can be removed by removing the four screws holding it in place. You may also find that the connectors on these speakers won't work for your aftermarket ones, so you will have to clip the wires and attach the end connectors provided with your speakers. Pay attention to positive and negative here. if you are unsure of what is what, there are a few ways to check. Look at the terminals on the factory speaker. it may have a "+" and "-" sign designating positive and negative. If it doesn't tell you, you can log on to installdr.com and look up the color codes for the speaker, or try the battery test. Take a good charged battery and place one of the factory speaker wires on the positive, and one on the negative of the battery. If the speaker pushes out, the polarity is correct as you have it, and attach the wires accordingly. If it pushes in, the polarity is reversed, so reverse the batter and try again. If it pushes out, wire the speakers following that polarity.
Install the speaker in the door by replacing the 4 screws and securing it in place, and reinstalling the door panel. be sure to slide it back down in place, and line up the clips exactly before applying pressure to reattach them. You don't want to break any of those. Finish screwing the door in place, then attach the window control panel/window crank, and congratulations, your done!
If you run into problems with your door panels, you can contact us at support@majesticmodifications.com for assistance.
Da biste ugradili subwoofer u auto, prvo ga morate imati, to je svima jasno.
Ali to nije sve što trebate imati:
Što vam treba?
Prvo - morate imati auto radio koji ima audio izlal (audio out) koji zaobilazi pojačalo radija, jer morate znati da nemožete pojačavati več pojačani signal. znači dva okrugla chinc izlaza crveni i bijeli.
Drugo - treba vam chinch (činč) kabel koji spaja radio sa auto pojačalom, dakle...
Treče - treba vam auto pojačalo. Za pojačalo vam je potrebno dodatno napajanje strujom, struju morate dovesti direktno sa akumulatora, jer u suprotnom nečete imati dovoljno jak napon. Da bi doveli struju morate imati oko 3 metra kabla, komada 2.
Provučete struju od akumulatora u unutrašnjos automobila, što bi mogao bit problem jer treba pronači rupicu kroz koju čete "progurati" kabel, ali ako vas mogu utješiti svaki automobil ima predviđenu "rupicu" , tijekom fiksiranja kabela ispod haube pripazite da ga ne provlačite blizu dijelova automobila koji proizvode veliku toplinu, da nebi došlo do topljenja kabela i nastanka kratkog spoja što bi prouzročilo katastrofalne posljedice, zato vam je naj sigurnije provuči kabel kroz plastiku koja je otporna na velike temperature...
uglavnom kada ste to napravili preporučam da na plus kabel stavite osigurač, (za koji amper jači nego što je na pojačalu) i naravno sklopku da možete isključiti pojačalo kada ga ne koristite. zatim spojite žice na pojačalo ali pazite da ne obrnete polaritet jer je vrlo vjerovatno da če tada izgoriti osigurač na pojačalu ili samo pojačalo...
Četvrto - ubacijete subwoofer u gepek i provlačite žicu od woofera do pojačala, pojačalo možete smjestiti ispod suvozačevog sjedala.
Ako ste sve radili točno kako sam vam sada opisao, vjerujem da se sada idete provozati svojim automobilom koji ima savršeno ozvučenje i kvalitetan zvuk...
Sretno
Ali to nije sve što trebate imati:
Što vam treba?
Prvo - morate imati auto radio koji ima audio izlal (audio out) koji zaobilazi pojačalo radija, jer morate znati da nemožete pojačavati več pojačani signal. znači dva okrugla chinc izlaza crveni i bijeli.
Drugo - treba vam chinch (činč) kabel koji spaja radio sa auto pojačalom, dakle...
Treče - treba vam auto pojačalo. Za pojačalo vam je potrebno dodatno napajanje strujom, struju morate dovesti direktno sa akumulatora, jer u suprotnom nečete imati dovoljno jak napon. Da bi doveli struju morate imati oko 3 metra kabla, komada 2.
Provučete struju od akumulatora u unutrašnjos automobila, što bi mogao bit problem jer treba pronači rupicu kroz koju čete "progurati" kabel, ali ako vas mogu utješiti svaki automobil ima predviđenu "rupicu" , tijekom fiksiranja kabela ispod haube pripazite da ga ne provlačite blizu dijelova automobila koji proizvode veliku toplinu, da nebi došlo do topljenja kabela i nastanka kratkog spoja što bi prouzročilo katastrofalne posljedice, zato vam je naj sigurnije provuči kabel kroz plastiku koja je otporna na velike temperature...
uglavnom kada ste to napravili preporučam da na plus kabel stavite osigurač, (za koji amper jači nego što je na pojačalu) i naravno sklopku da možete isključiti pojačalo kada ga ne koristite. zatim spojite žice na pojačalo ali pazite da ne obrnete polaritet jer je vrlo vjerovatno da če tada izgoriti osigurač na pojačalu ili samo pojačalo...
Četvrto - ubacijete subwoofer u gepek i provlačite žicu od woofera do pojačala, pojačalo možete smjestiti ispod suvozačevog sjedala.
Ako ste sve radili točno kako sam vam sada opisao, vjerujem da se sada idete provozati svojim automobilom koji ima savršeno ozvučenje i kvalitetan zvuk...
Sretno
Car Audio Compontents
In the realm of car audio, the possibilities are endless. There are hundreds of brands and thousands of products out there. Majestic Modifications would like to help restore some order to the chaos of building your system. Lets look at some of the components that make up a car audio system.
The Head Unit
The Head Unit is the brains of the operation. Without this component, your car audio system can't and won't work. The head unitis the central processing device in the system.
The head unit controls all the functions in your car audio system. Music too loud? Turn down the volume. Too soft? Turn it up. Want more bass? Add bass input. In addition to volume, bass, etc., the head unit may contain other systems within its casing. These include: tuner, cassette, equalizer, CD or amplifier.
You see, in a home music system, where you have much more room, many stereo setups will include a separate box for each one of these components -- CD, cassette, etc. You may have a home system like that yourself. In a car, with its space limitations, these components are often crammed into one box -- the head unit. This depends upon a number of factors, such as heat, space, cosmetic design and other concerns, and every car is different.
The Amplifier
All car audio systems have an amplifier, even if it's a small one. Occasionally the amplifier will be attached to the rear of the head unit; however, in most systems it is hidden elsewhere in the car to better dissipate heat.
Signal amplification is actually a two-stage process, handled by two separate components. These are the preamplifier and the power amplifier.
The preamplifier (preamp, for short) is a very tiny signal coming directly from the head unit. Whether it's reproducing a cassette signal, a CD signal, or an FM broadcast, the preamp puts out a signal that the amplifier can use. This is where the power amplifier takes over.
It's the power amp's job to take the signal from the preamp and boost it into the audible range. We'll cover this in more depth in our Amplifier column in this series. Again, because of heat, most amplifiers are located away from the head unit.
The Speakers
The speakers take the boosted signal from the power amp and create sound waves. Essentially, speakers transform electrical energy (the amplified signal) into mechanical energy (the motion of the speaker cone).
For now, know that all sound is vibration, which is a chain of frequencies in the air that eventually vibrate the membranes in your eardrums.
Sound energy is measured in wavelengths, known as hertz, with the audible range falling between 20 to 20,000 cycles. A cycle is the distance from the top of one wavelength to the top of the next.
There are three typse of speakers that produce sounds across the audible spectrum: woofers, tweeters and midrange drivers.
As the name implies, the woofer reproduces the lower frequencies. The tweeter, also aptly named, replicates the highest register. The midrange handles the frequencies in between.
Auxiliary Input Devices
Components such as CD changers and equalizers, not to mention cell phones, navigation systems, MP3 players and many of the newer technologies, interface with the head unit for amplification and signal processing.
We hope this helps you gather a basic understanding of car audio technology. Look for an in-depth view inside the head unit in our next column.
In the realm of car audio, the possibilities are endless. There are hundreds of brands and thousands of products out there. Majestic Modifications would like to help restore some order to the chaos of building your system. Lets look at some of the components that make up a car audio system.
The Head Unit
The Head Unit is the brains of the operation. Without this component, your car audio system can't and won't work. The head unitis the central processing device in the system.
The head unit controls all the functions in your car audio system. Music too loud? Turn down the volume. Too soft? Turn it up. Want more bass? Add bass input. In addition to volume, bass, etc., the head unit may contain other systems within its casing. These include: tuner, cassette, equalizer, CD or amplifier.
You see, in a home music system, where you have much more room, many stereo setups will include a separate box for each one of these components -- CD, cassette, etc. You may have a home system like that yourself. In a car, with its space limitations, these components are often crammed into one box -- the head unit. This depends upon a number of factors, such as heat, space, cosmetic design and other concerns, and every car is different.
The Amplifier
All car audio systems have an amplifier, even if it's a small one. Occasionally the amplifier will be attached to the rear of the head unit; however, in most systems it is hidden elsewhere in the car to better dissipate heat.
Signal amplification is actually a two-stage process, handled by two separate components. These are the preamplifier and the power amplifier.
The preamplifier (preamp, for short) is a very tiny signal coming directly from the head unit. Whether it's reproducing a cassette signal, a CD signal, or an FM broadcast, the preamp puts out a signal that the amplifier can use. This is where the power amplifier takes over.
It's the power amp's job to take the signal from the preamp and boost it into the audible range. We'll cover this in more depth in our Amplifier column in this series. Again, because of heat, most amplifiers are located away from the head unit.
The Speakers
The speakers take the boosted signal from the power amp and create sound waves. Essentially, speakers transform electrical energy (the amplified signal) into mechanical energy (the motion of the speaker cone).
For now, know that all sound is vibration, which is a chain of frequencies in the air that eventually vibrate the membranes in your eardrums.
Sound energy is measured in wavelengths, known as hertz, with the audible range falling between 20 to 20,000 cycles. A cycle is the distance from the top of one wavelength to the top of the next.
There are three typse of speakers that produce sounds across the audible spectrum: woofers, tweeters and midrange drivers.
As the name implies, the woofer reproduces the lower frequencies. The tweeter, also aptly named, replicates the highest register. The midrange handles the frequencies in between.
Auxiliary Input Devices
Components such as CD changers and equalizers, not to mention cell phones, navigation systems, MP3 players and many of the newer technologies, interface with the head unit for amplification and signal processing.
We hope this helps you gather a basic understanding of car audio technology. Look for an in-depth view inside the head unit in our next column.
Installing Head Units/CD Players
Upgrading the sound system is usually one of the first modifications attempted when we talk about car customization.
Begining with the head unit, I would suggest buying the stereo wiring harness for your vehicle application. This will make the installation easier for you if you are a beginner, and it allows for easier replacement of the stock radio (if you choose to sell the vehicle in the future) and swaping or upgrading to a different aftermarket head unit.
Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery. This will ensure that you don't accidentally cross any wires and burn out a new piece of equipment. Next, remove the old head unit. If you need to see how this is done on your specific vehicle, you can look up your vehicles application on installdr.com. This is a great resource for seeing pictures of how to remove the head unit. Once it is loose, disconnect the wiring harness and the antenna from the head unit and remove it completely.
Once you have obtained the wiring harness, you will notice the color coded wires in the back of the head unit. The head unit wires and the wiring harness wires will be partially spliced for easy installation. There are several good ways to connect the wires. One way is to use butt connectors, which crimp the wires within a connector. These can be picked up almost anywhere that sells/installs head units, walmart, etc. My favorite way requires a soldering iron and heat shrinking sleeves. Twist the wires together tightly, and fold them over paralell to one of the wires. Apply just enough solder to weld the two wires together. Then slide the sleeve over the connection and heat it with a heat gun or good hair dryer. I have had to rewire or repair systems where butt connectors were used, but this could be installer error, and not a problem with the connectors themselves. I have never had any of the soldered connections fail.
Once all the connections are made, and the sleeves heated and shrunk in place, I like to take a zip tie and tie them all together. Connect the wiring harness of the head unit to the wiring harness connected to the vehicle. Plug in the antenna (you may find you need an antenna adapter in some applications). Now slide the head unit in place, but don't attach it yet. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn on the head unit (make sure the key is turned to the ACC postion). It should be functioning properly at this point. If you plan on adding an amp, or have purchased one for this setup, turn the unit off and connect the RCA cables. Run them through the dash to the floorboard and to the amp (more on how to successfully do this in future post).
If you encounter problems, you can email support@majesticmodifications.com for help.
Upgrading the sound system is usually one of the first modifications attempted when we talk about car customization.
Begining with the head unit, I would suggest buying the stereo wiring harness for your vehicle application. This will make the installation easier for you if you are a beginner, and it allows for easier replacement of the stock radio (if you choose to sell the vehicle in the future) and swaping or upgrading to a different aftermarket head unit.
Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery. This will ensure that you don't accidentally cross any wires and burn out a new piece of equipment. Next, remove the old head unit. If you need to see how this is done on your specific vehicle, you can look up your vehicles application on installdr.com. This is a great resource for seeing pictures of how to remove the head unit. Once it is loose, disconnect the wiring harness and the antenna from the head unit and remove it completely.
Once you have obtained the wiring harness, you will notice the color coded wires in the back of the head unit. The head unit wires and the wiring harness wires will be partially spliced for easy installation. There are several good ways to connect the wires. One way is to use butt connectors, which crimp the wires within a connector. These can be picked up almost anywhere that sells/installs head units, walmart, etc. My favorite way requires a soldering iron and heat shrinking sleeves. Twist the wires together tightly, and fold them over paralell to one of the wires. Apply just enough solder to weld the two wires together. Then slide the sleeve over the connection and heat it with a heat gun or good hair dryer. I have had to rewire or repair systems where butt connectors were used, but this could be installer error, and not a problem with the connectors themselves. I have never had any of the soldered connections fail.
Once all the connections are made, and the sleeves heated and shrunk in place, I like to take a zip tie and tie them all together. Connect the wiring harness of the head unit to the wiring harness connected to the vehicle. Plug in the antenna (you may find you need an antenna adapter in some applications). Now slide the head unit in place, but don't attach it yet. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn on the head unit (make sure the key is turned to the ACC postion). It should be functioning properly at this point. If you plan on adding an amp, or have purchased one for this setup, turn the unit off and connect the RCA cables. Run them through the dash to the floorboard and to the amp (more on how to successfully do this in future post).
If you encounter problems, you can email support@majesticmodifications.com for help.
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