Code for SONY Model CDX-M500R , CDX-M600R , CDX-M700R , CDX-M800R :gg

If anyone have a problem with one of this SONY Models CDX-M500R , CDX-M600R , CDX-M700R And Possibly CDX-M800R, then hear is the solution :

Your car radio display : "CODE IN" but you can’t enter code from buttons. You need to solder three pins together on the underside of the main PCB to disable the code. These are accessible from under the radio so you don’t have to disassemble the unit. Look for an oversized vent hole below the white label.(view image)

You can also use the IR Remote control : SONY RM-X96 (view table instructions)

On the bottom of the unit is a window with three pair of contacts || || ||

Legend: O = Open Contacts , C = Closed Contacts.

TP3	TP2	TP1	code
O	O	O	Unknown
O	O	C	Unknown
O	C	O	Unknown
O	C	C	sound,mode,att,open (With the remote)
C	O	O	Unknown
C	O	C	menu,enter,mode,open (With the remote)
C	C	O	Unknown
C	C	C	No Code (Code Disabled)

SONY car radio Model CDX-M500R

SONY car radio Model CDX-M600R

SONY car radio Model CDX-M700R

SONY car radio Model CDX-M800R

Panasonic DMP-B15 Portable Blu-ray Player - Non-stop Entertainment

Panasonic DMP-B15 Portable Blu-ray Player - Non-stop Entertainment

Panasonic is well-known for its quality, value and innovation. They distribute high quality electronic products all around the world.

Recently, Panasonic has released a Blu-ray player -- DMP-B15, a portable 8-inch DVD player having features like a 16:9 wide LCD screen offering a unique style of watching.

Its free style watching ensures the screen to be swapped to a broader array of positions for watching. This DVD player has a large viewing area to enjoy DVDs more comfortably. This player can also be connected to an HD-Audio compatible AV receiver with a home theater speaker system and enjoy movies with outstanding surround sound. To accommodate the traveler, the DMP-B15 offers an optional headrest mounting bracket for in-car use.

This player has PHL Reference Chroma Processor Plus technology developed in collaboration with Panasonic Hollywood Laboratory is a high quality image-processing technology that precisely processes each pixel of the Blu-ray Disc video signal in the vertical direction which results in high image quality. It reproduces color data with twice the accuracy of conventional systems, resulting in faithful and sharp colors.

This device also includes VIERA CAST functionality -- a distinctive application that allows the user access to select Web sites, including Amazon Video-on-Demand, a streaming video service that permits the users to access more than 40,000 titles. Moreover, this B15 features an SD Memory Card slot that allows the users to view and share digital photos, as well as HD video recorded on a SD card like all other Panasonic Blu-ray players. Also this gadget has a long battery life too.

Audio Video Cables Installation

Audio Video Cables Installation

Cables and cords are essential to operating your favorite device. Component video separates the video signal into individual streams and these video streams are carried via three cables, colored red, and green and blue that normally comes bundled with RCA type jack connectors. Component video signals will provide better color resolution, purity and fidelity than S-Video and composite video signals.

For electronics like televisions, digital cameras and camcorders there are DVI cables, HDMI cables and S-video cables. Also, HDMI cables are used for content management. For example, a manufacturer would use it to enable service providers to control access to specific content.

DVI stands for Digital Video Interface, while HDMI stands for High-Definition Multimedia Interface.

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The biggest difference between DVI and HDMI is that DVI is used solely for video and HDMI cables carry both the video and audio signals through one signal. There are RCA cables, which are also known as composite cables, which include one connection for video which is usually yellow and it includes parts for left and right audio channels, which are usually white and red respectively.

Audio video Cablesare higher quality analog video cables which are generally used in hooking up your television, VCR, DVD player, or similar to another video source, such as a computer. There are also component cables which are essentially providers of higher quality and better signal throughput.

The principle idea behind HDMI is the use of a single interconnects instead of several cables when connecting an audio video source, such as a set top box or DVD player and an audio and or video monitor, such as a plasma TV, over a single HDMI cable.

The use of a single HDMI cable that replaces the maze of cabling behind home entertainment centers is the primary advantage brought about by this new standard. This is not the case with DVI supports digital video only hence, a separate audio cable is needed to transport digital audio when a DVI cable is used.

Audio Video cables are used to hook up receivers, tuners, radios, stereos, micro shelf systems and speakers. Other cables that are also used in audio video equipment are optical cables which are used to transmit light as the signal and coaxial cables. For cords, some of most popular are actually wire harnesses which are used in cars to power a car stereo.

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Amplifier Troubleshooting

Please try these things before sending in your amplifier. By the numbers, 40% of all amps returned to us work just fine and there is a problem in the wiring or install.
You must have a DMM (Digital Muti Meter) and know how to use it.
If no: take it to someone who does.
If yes: thumb through the following scenarios

Amp will not come on (no lights):

Set DMM to DC voltage and check at the amp. You need to test with both (+ & -) leads on the amplifier Power terminals.

If over 12 volts: check both sides of the fuses in the amp.
If no or low voltage: ground the DMM (-) test lead to a good, clean, metal chassis ground in the vehicle and retest.

If over 12 volts now: problem is in the ground wire or connection (between the amplifier and its chassis ground).

If still no voltage: check both sides of the fuse by the battery.

NOTE: You cannot check a fuse by just looking. Fuses can be “bad” and not blown; especially the larger, cheap-ass, glass ones.

If blown or bad: replace and start beatin’ again!

If all is good with battery voltage, it is now time to check the remote (or turn on) wire. Check voltage at terminal of amp.

If no voltage: check voltage at head unit. You can also make a jumper from the main 12V+ connection to the remote terminal to see if the amp comes on. If it does, the problem is in the head unit remote output or remote wire between the head unit and the amplifier.

If all power wiring tests good, remove the amp from the vehicle and test with short jumper wires directly at the battery, using a jumper wire from amp 12V+ to the remote terminal, just as a “I need to make sure” final test. If it still doesn’t come on, it needs to be sent in.

Amp turns on but goes into protect:

Disconnect RCAs and speakers and try turning the amp on again.

If it still goes into protect with just power, ground and remote; the amp is bad.

If it is now on and not in protect: connect the RCA’s first.
If it goes into protect: the problem is in the cables or headunit. Change and retest.

If still not in protect: reconnect speakers
If it goes into protect: problem is in the speakers or wiring (most likely shorted [or grounded] wiring or burnt coils). Set DMM to 'ohms' and first test by shorting leads together. This number (usually in the .4 range) will be subtracted from any reading you get. Connect DMM leads to each speaker wire pair. If you have a short, reading same as touching the leads together, trace the wiring to find short.

If no short in wiring: test the speakers individually and eliminate problem.

If amp comes on (and not in protect) and has no output:

Check all settings. Turn deck on at low volume.
       Master/Slave switch in master position.
       Gain all the way up.
       Subsonic filter all the way down.
       Boost all the way down.
       X-over all the way up.

If still no sound: you will need to try an alternate input. The best is a signal generator right to the input of the amp. Alternately, you could use another radio wired in with temporary wiring right at the amp with a very short, known-working RCA cord.

If still no sound: try a known-working test speaker with very short wiring right to the amp terminals. If still no sound: amp is bad. This is a very rare failure but it can happen.

Amp has distorted output:

Same test as above. You need to eliminate all the variables.

If you are testing a stereo amp and you have the problem on one channel:

Swap RCA’s: if it changes sides, the problem is in the deck or RCA cables.

If same side: swap speaker outputs at the amp. If it changes sides, the problem is in the amp. If it stays on the same side, the problem is in the wiring or speaker.

Amp plays but has low output:

Check all settings. Turn deck on at low volume.
       Master/Slave switch in master position.
       Gain all the way up.
       Subsonic filter all the way down.
       Boost all the way down.
       X-over all the way up.

Turn up the radio. If problem remains:

Check voltage drop at amp power input terminals. Set your meter to DC voltage with the hold feature activated. If your meter does not have that feature you will need to watch it to see how low the voltage drops when it is trying to play loud. If voltage drops below 11 volts at any time, you need more battery/alternator power and or better wiring.

If voltage remains above 12 the entire time, you need to check the speakers.

Set meter to ohms and check the DC resistance of the speaker load. If it falls within the proper load for the amp, check the amp, hooked to known-working speakers. If new speakers work, the problem is in the speaker system. If it still has low output, you need to check the inputs as described above with a known-working deck and RCAs.

Amp plays but cuts off and on:

Attach volt meter to power and ground terminals at the amplifier.

Set the meter to peak hold (max/min) and display "minimum DC voltage".

Run the system until the amp shuts off and check the voltage. If voltage has dropped below 10 volts at any time, check all wiring.

Leave the meter positive on the battery wire and use a good, clean ground point on the vehicle and test again. If voltage has a higher reading than before, the problem is in the ground connection.

If it has the same voltage, work your way back to the battery; testing at any and all connection points. I.e. distribution blocks, capacitor, fuses, etc.

If at any point voltage goes up, you have found the voltage drop point.

Single vs. Multiple Drivers

There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach. For this, let's consider a scenario where the cone area of a single driver is equal to the cumulative cone area of multiple drivers: An example of this would be a single 10" woofer with an Sd of 50in^2 versus a pair of 8" woofers with an Sd of 25in^2 each.

The single driver advantage: Linearity. A single driver system isn't subject to the acoustic or electrical forces countering in phase--even if by a fraction of a degree--which typically occurs when multiple pistons share a common space or when multiple inductors share a common circuit.

The single driver disadvantage: It has been my observation that a single larger driver will typically exhibit higher equivalent air compliance (Vas) than the combined compliance of two smaller drivers. This can translate into higher Vb requirements.

The multiple driver advantage: Assuming that the motor structure is the same on both the 8" and the 10" model, the immediate advantage is twice the motor for every square inch of cone area, twice the power handling, and more end-impedance versatility.

The multiple driver disadvantage: As stated above, using multiple independently actuated pistons increases the risk of the electro-mechanical forces countering one another. This is particularly evident with high Qts drivers.

The Perfect Subwoofer Box

We often hear talk (specially in car audio) about certain boxes being RIGHT for certain woofers. Many folks talk like a given woofer wont even play at all if the box size is not exactly perfect!

What is perfect?

Manufacturers often recommend a certain box for their speakers.

Computer box programs can PICK the box size (or tuning) that works best(?) with the woofer if you input the Thiele/Small parameters.

Is the box size the manufacturer recommends perfect? How can it possibly be perfect when they don't even know what kind of car your installing the box into? We all know the car will change the sound (this is called transfer function)! How can they possibly choose the perfect box size? Many times the speaker manufacturers recommendation is chosen not for perfect sound but for an average that might work well in the average car. Many times they might recommend the box that's easiest to build for beginners or small (since many folks like woofs that work in small boxes) or sealed instead of vented because it is less likely for you to blow your speaker in a small sealed box than a large vented box! (if you blow your speaker (a) they might have to replace it. (b) the company might get a reputation for lousy speakers if they blow a lot) Sure, the manufacturers recommendation will probably sound great! But perfect??? Is the manufacturers recommended box size really right for you?

Is the box size provided by computer programs perfect? Again, how can it be unless they take into account the transfer function of the car??? I don't know of a current popular program that does! Most computer programs will calculate a box for you with the lowest response and with the least ripple. In car audio, this many times IS NOT the best! Sometimes (specially in SPL competitions) the ripple the computer program tries to avoid might actually be an SPL or bass boost! Or for an SQ car, a slight ripple (inaudible, an may likely be made up for by the cars transfer function) might get you much deeper bass... Is the computers recommendation the perfect box? Is the computer programs recommended box right for you?

How bout the difference in CUSTOM made boxes vs PREFAB boxes?

Most real car audio enthusiasts would never consider a PREFAB box, we all know the custom built boxes are far superior sounding... BUT ARE THEY REALLY?

From my experience there is a great amount of BADLY BUILT custom boxes being built! Built so badly in fact that for many cases a prefab box would be miles better!

A prefab box could be better than a badly built custom box! I have heard some darned good systems with prefab boxes and some very poor systems with custom built boxes.. It's important if your gonna pay high dollar for an installer to build you a custom box that the installer be good at building boxes or you might just as well have spent your money on a pre-fab and spent the left over money on something else.

PLUS, since we mentioned installers, how many really have any background in speaker design? Many claim to be experts, but in the real world most installers just build the so called custom boxes with no AUDIO PHYSICS in mind. So for a custom box, its important the installer be not only a carpenter but also an expert at loudspeaker box design... Or a pre-fab box might be the better choice! ;-)

And, in reality, there is no PERFECT box, and to really custom build a box to perform as good as possible in a given vehicle it requires huge stacks of expensive test equipment, lots of woodworking tools and saws, and building, testing then rebuilding and retesting, and rebuilding and retesting again and again and again until no more good is achieved. This is done only by a few crazy competition gurus or a few nutty hobbyists, certainly NOT for the average car audio guy, or even the average installer...

So, I think it would be safe to say most so called perfect boxes are no where near perfect, they can all be improved on. And even if they were perfect, putting them in a car will change them, even the direction the box fires in the car can have an effect!

And it makes me laugh when I hear a fellow say something like " the manufacturer recommends 1.5cu ft for this speaker, it wont work in 1.25cu ft!"

Sure it will!
If that's all the space you have,
build it,
play it,
enjoy it!

There are so many variables involved there is a chance the NON-PERFECT box might even sound better than the so called perfect one! Try it ;-)

Enjoy!

Mapping the Transfer Function

Putting a speaker in a vehicle (or room for that matter) will make the speaker sound different. This is caused by reflections, absorptions and resonance's that exist in that car. This change is called the transfer function.

All cars have a transfer function, typically the most noticeable change to speakers when placed in a car is MORE BASS. More bass is inherent because the car is like a box, an enclosed space that promotes reinforcing reflections of the bass sounds (because the bass waves are long enough to be reflected and still be close enough to in phase and reinforce)....

But the transfer function is more than just a change in bass, it also can cause major changes in the midrange speakers because of the major glass surfaces for the sound to bounce off of! Or the high frequency sounds from the tweeters can be absorbed into the headliner or car upholstery (intentionally sound absorbent by the car manufacturer to absorb road noise)...

So, we cant easily change the transfer function, but we can map it, and then build our system to take advantage of our cars transfer function.

To map the transfer function you will need a Speaker box, a CD with test tones or an audio test generator or a pink noise generator and a decibel meter. There are several CDs available with test tones, I prefer the tone generator but they are fairly expensive and hard to find an install shop with one, pink noise is OK but pink noise generators are probably just as hard to find as audio generators. And for a decibel meter Radio shack sells one for about $30 that will work. Oh, and a piece of graph paper to write down your results.

First, lets map the speaker box. Take your speaker box outdoors in the back yard and aim it away from the house to minimize reflections, hang the SPL meter or microphone for it a few meters in front of the speaker box. Fire up your test tones and set the volume level where the SPL meter gets a reading on most of your test tones (if the low ones don't register don't worry), but not too loud, we don't want to damage the test speaker! Now without touching the volume control, run your test tones and write down on your graph paper the SPL at each tone. You can even make a graph on the graph paper if you want to.

Your results is the frequency response of your test speaker!

Lets put this box in the car and do the test again and see what changes!

Set the test speaker in a nice location, preferably close to where the real speakers will go later. Hang the microphone in the center of the car near where your ears would be if you were driving, and run through the test tones again, reading the SPL meter and writing down the results on the graph paper.

When you done, subtract the back yard numbers from the in car numbers for each frequency and write down your results. For instance, if you had 90dB at 120Hz in the back yard and 95dB in the car then (95-90=5) write down 120Hz=+5dB, and do this for every frequency you mapped. Some frequencies may have negative numbers, this is OK... When your done, you should have a series of frequencies=numbers something like this: 20=+4, 40=+6, 80=+12, 120=+3, 200=0, 400=-3, 600=-4, and so on...

This is your transfer function, you can now look at any frequency and tell what
your car is going to do to ANY SPEAKER you install.

Simple....