Hifonics Release 09/10 range of Brutus Amps

Maxxsonics' new Hifonics Brutus amplifier line up offers the most versatile and comprehensive Super D-Class series than ever before.

For years, Brutus BXI amplifiers have been recognized the world over as some of the best subwoofer amplifiers in their class. The new Brutus amps are 1-Ohm stable, but also run at 4- or 2-Ohms for a much tighter bass response.

Simply put, watt for watt, a Brutus amplifier produces more output with less impact on a car’s battery and charging system, than many other amps available today. Translated into cost, that’s more wattage output with less battery current used, equaling more watts per dollar.

For SPL, nothing compares to the Super D-Class grade microprocessors developed exclusively by Hifonics. In relying on this super-speed enhanced chip-set, Brutus BXI amplifiers offer higher current capacities and more precise digital to analog conversion. The result is very low distortion, even at high listening levels. For high performance sound, Hifonics doesn’t miss a beat by also including a Brutus A/BClass amplifier in the line.

According to John Studley, Vice President Product Development, “Our Brutus amps not only sound great, but look great with an extruded aluminum chassis and an illuminated Hifonics logo. We spend just as much time and detail on the technology of our products as we do on the exterior.” Studley concluded by saying, “Even the Hifonics logo was designed so that it has a soft haloed illumination that is tasteful and not distracting.”

See the Brutus series and complete line up from Hifonics at the Maxxsonics booth, North Hall 1809 at CES.

MODEL/ RMS POWER /MSRP

A/B-Class

BXI610 1 x 150 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 300 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 600 W @ 1 Ω $449.95

D-Class

BXI1210D 1 x 450 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 900 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 1200 W @ 1 Ω $649.95

BXI1610D 1 x 550 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 1100 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 1600 W @ 1 Ω $799.95

BXI2010D 1 x 650 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 1300 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 2000 W @ 1 Ω $999.95

BXI2610D 1 x 850 W @ 4 Ω, 1 x 1700 W @ 2 Ω, 1 x 2600 W @ 1 Ω $1199.95

Understanding The Basic Car Audio Capacitors

The audio system in our cars is an assortment of different parts. Each and every part in the system performs a specific function. It is with the co-ordination of all the parts, that you can hear the system play those fantastic tracks as you drive along. In the entire system, car audio capacitors have a significance of their own.

What are car audio capacitors?

Car audio capacitors are basically power storages in the car. These capacitors accumulate that power which is essential for the amplifier to produce great sounds. You can hear the booming bass sounds and songs with that much needed punch only because of audio capacitors. Car audio capacitors are also known as stiffening capacitors.

More on car audio capacitors

• Audio capacitors accumulate power whenever it is not required. This power is released when the demand for power exceeds the supply capacity of the power system of the car.

• Audio capacitors are necessary to supplement the regular power supply of the car in order to ensure the smooth functioning of the amplifier. Car audio capacitors usually range from 0.5 farads to 3 farads.

• You have to install a car audio capacitor that complements your amplifier. It is also necessary to place the capacitor as near as possible to the amplifier. For 500 RMS of power output, it is necessary to have an audio capacitor of 0.5 farads.

• There are also digital audio power capacitors. These can also be installed in cars. A digital audio capacitor (usually from 1.5 farads) consists of a turn on and turn off circuitry along with a 24-volt DC.

If you car lights dim when your car audio system produces a deep bass note, then your amp will be greatly helped with a car audio capacitor.

How do I know I need A Capacitor?

Before installation, it's often difficult to predict whether or not a capacitor will be beneficial to you. It's generally best to install the audio equipment prior to making the determination, so that you can address which symptoms need to be remedied and assess the severity of the symptoms. This will not only help you decide whether or not you need a capacitor, but also how much capacitance would be beneficial.

The most common symptom in need of added capacitance is headlight dimming (and sometimes dimming of the interior/dash lights). It's caused by a drop in system voltage associated with excessive current draw. While there may indeed be several loads drawing substantial amounts of current from the electrical system (eg. heat, AC, and so forth), it's usually the transient draws that best manifest themselves in noticeable dimming. This is partly because our visual systems are most sensitive to detecting rapidly changing intensity levels rather than steady absolute differences.

Once you've assessed whether or not the dimming is noticeable (and sufficiently annoying), you must decide whether a capacitor is warranted or if you'd be better served by upgrading the alternator.After initially having your alternator and battery checked out (some places will do this for free), the choice should be based on the severity of the dimming.

A commonly-used estimate for determining the appropriate size capacitor is 1F/kW (one farad per kilowatt). For example, a system running at300W would need a 0.3F (or 300,000uF) capacitor. However, there are several variables at play here, including the capabilities of the vehicle's electrical system (which generally varies from idle to higher RPMs), the efficiency of the amplifiers, and the listening habits of the user (ie. the tone controls and the type of music).

These factors should all be considered when making the determination. Moreover, the voltage drop can be so severe that added capacitance is nothing more than a band-aid. That is, even several Farads of capacitance would not be able to sustain the voltage for as long as the drop persists. This Is when an alternator upgrade may be in order.

How to wire a capacitor?

You can refer to a recent post on wiring Here


This part of the game can be fun or disappointing depending on what you can do. First I'm going to give you an example system that I believe includes everything you need to have a pretty good system. After that I will show you how to make compromises and leave out parts that may not be as important to you to keep your system within your budget. If you want to go beyond my basic system you probably already know more than what this site can tell you. Also, you do not have to get everything at once. I put my system together over a few years. With a little planning you can upgrade your system in steps and that way its like getting a new system every time you change something instead of getting everything at once!

Basic System: This is my opinion only but I think that a good system should start off with a good head unit that either has a CD player and/or is connected to a CD changer. A good system sounds best when playing CDs, tapes just do not cut it. Next I think component sets are made with fewer compromises than coaxial speakers so I suggest getting a good mid-range/tweeter set for the front. Head units generally do not put out enough clean power so you will want an amp to drive the component set. In the rear where you only need some "fill" for ambiance you can get away with cheaper coaxials and set their level lower than the fronts to keep the sound stage in front. A modest (50x4) 4 channel amp is a good choice here for powering the component set up front and the rear speakers. You could use a good 2 channel amp and run the front and back in parallel on the amp but it would harder to adjust the level between them. Mid-ranges sound best when they do not play bass so you will want a 2 way electronic crossover and use the high pass output to drive your 4 channel amp. I did not forget the bass! Most people are happy with a single 10" woofer or a pair of 12"s. Use an appropriate enclosure and a big amp (at least 75x2, preferably even more). Throw in installation and wiring accessories (like fuses and distribution blocks). Here's an approximate price break down of what this costs in my area. Your prices may be significantly different.

  • head unit: $300-$500
  • 4 channel amp for highs: $250-$400
  • 2 channel amp for lows: $300-$700
  • sub(s) (1-10" to 2-12"): $150-$450
  • enclosure for sub(s): $0 (free air) - $250 (custom)
  • component set: $200-$500
  • coaxials for rear fill: $100-$400
  • crossover/equalizer: $100-$500
  • wiring and accessories: $50-$250
  • installation: $0 (do it yourself) - $100 (basic)

This comes out to $1450-$3950! I realize that this is a lot of money and that most people do not spend nearly this much money on their car stereo. However, the things listed above are what I feel is necessary to have a system with only a few compromises. If you are less concerned about highs, get coaxials in front instead of the component set and power them off of the head unit and use some bass blockers on them. This will save you about $400. Getting a bargain head unit can save you some money as well. If you are really not into bass much you can forgo all the bass related equipment and run your component set full range. This will still give you clean sound but not much bass. However, you will save $550-$2300. I would start with what I have listed above and take out parts you do not care about as much. Only you know what kind of system you can be happy with.

Please do not email me asking for recommendations about specific brands. There is a lot of equipment out there that I have not used so I will not comment on them. I am happy with the components that I have but that is as far as I can go with recommendations. When buying equipment try to spend time listening to it before you buy, especially with speakers. Also try to use equipment that is similar to yours when listening in a store. As for amps, it costs money to build a good amp so if you see some awesome price on an amp you have never heard of, it is probably a piece of junk. Stick with good names with amps.

Finally, if you are on a budget (aren't we all?) it works better to upgrade in steps. The most important thing is to have a car audio system that sounds good to you not someone else. If you are happy with just changing the factory speakers and stopping there then just do that. There is a level when that new amp or speaker is not going to make a difference so it is not necessary to always upgrade. There are people who think my system is terrible but it works well enough for me and anything else I do to it would be a minor gain and not worth my trouble. Do not let a salesperson talk you into something you do not need! Good luck!

Pioneer AVIC-F900BT - Navigation Review

The Latest Version Of The AVIC Is Loaded With Features At A Budget Price

MSRP: $1,100
A few months ago I had the opportunity to testdrive the new AVIC F-series of navigation/multimedia source units in one of the various demo vehicles that Pioneer arranged for the press preview. The F-series basically replaces the D line, which ended with the D3. Like the latter, the new products are priced low enough that, value-wise, it would be a much better deal for people who want navigation to buy an AVIC F than one of the PNDs from the big three nav makers. After all, the AVIC-F900BT is superior in many ways to the D-series and costs only a little over a grand, for which you get a lot of built-in media functionality, along with the navigation.

There were some glitches in the pre-production models at the preview- some of the same issues some users have experienced with the production models. But the new AVICs seemed very promising, and I looked forward to having the chance to use one of various source units in the line.

Affordable All-In-One
Ostensibly, the AVIC-F900BT that I received for review is the complete package. The double-DIN unit with a 5.8-inch touchscreen has map data (from TeleAtlas) completely contained on a flash drive. A lot of nav users will be glad to hear that DVD-ROMs are no longer necessary. So you have navigation, DVD playback, and music galore via disc, iPod, a thumb drive, or an SD card, not to mention HD Radio and satellite radio with adapters, which have to be purchased separately. Conveniently, there's also a mini-jack connection on the face of the source unit. The 3.5mm mini-jack aux input is a great feature, but that too requires Pioneer's CD-RM10 cable in order for you to connect an A/V device to the unit.

This AVIC also has you covered for Bluetooth. You can connect three phones and the F900BT will store 400 contacts; it allows you to be totally hands-free. That applies for accessing music from your iPod as well. The F900BT has voice recognition software (called the VoiceBox Conversational Voice Search Platform) that makes it possible for you to select music folders and tracks by voice command. As with a lot of voice command systems, it can have problems understanding your requests. Be it the Ford Sync, the AVIC-Z3, or a separate aftermarket Bluetooth kits-I've yet to find a product that works as advertised in terms of the voice recognition quality. In theory, you can make calls, select tracks off your iPod, and even make some navigation commands just by using your voice. It's not perfect, but it's better than not having the option. Caveats or not, the above features are a pretty amazing collection of options. They may be found on other pre-existing (and separate) products, but at $1,100, this seems to be a real steal.

Add the option for MSN Direct for traffic information, movie time listings, and a list of the gas stations with the best per gallon prices and more, and you can see why I say that the F900BT is the complete package. MSN Direct is a must-have. And the GOOG-411 service is a nice add-on feature. You can use it to search for and connect to local businesses via a toll-free number. The only thing that is important to me that the unit lacks is the ability for DVD-Audio or, say, SACD playback. But then when was the last time you actually bought a disc in one of those formats? OK, not big misses there. On the audio side, the F900BT takes care of business, and will probably be robust enough for most music fans. There are seven preset EQ curves; and you can make a couple of your own custom EQ settings. There's also a three-band parametric EQ that allows you to select the Q factor, a highpass filter, adjustable loudness, and SLA (source level adjustment) to keep your volume settings consistent over different sources.

Navigating Potential

The main selling point for most consumers, of course, is going to be the navigation. The map data covers the U.S., including Alaska and Hawaii (and Canada) on a 2GB flash drive. That contains the usual list of POIs as well. The graphics are fine and the lane departure indicator is terrific, but the voice guidance could have provided faster alerts to turns on surface streets and exits off freeways, for example. But the bigger problem was that accessing data can test your patience. Searching for a POI "around the current GPS location" requires a wait of a few seconds to get to the next menu window. Also, I looked for Nixon's library locally as a tourist attraction, but it wasn't listed on the search result. When I typed it in on another search I finally got the address. So there are some things you might think should be more intuitive than it is; however, I should add that I find this kind of problem a lot with various nav devices. What compounds the issue of an already slow system is something more fundamental: I counted anywhere from 30 to 60 seconds for the system to load when I started the car. The only thing I could do during that time was insert a CD and adjust the volume. Whether or not this is a big deal will depend on your level of patience. I just don't happen to have a lot of it.

There are issues such as the above that make what was potentially an amazing product a decent product instead. The lesser-than-average visibility of the monitor, especially during the day, the average touchscreen responsiveness and the flat, difficult-to-use volume knob also detract from what was a great concept: a multimedia navigation unit priced for the masses. Early adopters of the AVIC F-series have encountered problems with the Bluetooth, iPod functionality, and the system loading time. On the F900BT, I experienced dropped calls as well. To address the different problems Pioneer released a firmware update. You can go to the company's website, www.pioneerelectronics.com and go to the navigation section. There are explicit directions for downloading the firmware and for loading it via SD card to your F900BT or other F-series unit (the F500BT is excluded). You'll find that it will improve the performance of a product, making it that much more worth the price. And ultimately, at this price point (and that is the point) there isn't another product with as much to offer and that is as easy to use while being so feature-rich. The question is: How much is too much for a product with great and various capabilities that are countered by some functionality issues? There are always value or quality trade-offs when you buy things. I would suggest you go for your own testdrive to determine if the new AVIC is worth it for you. I should note that the latest shipment of AVICs have the firmware included, which should make your decision to buy a little easier.

Key Features

5.8-inch touchscreenMap data on flash driveVoiceBox for voice control of iPod and BluetoothMSN Direct (with subscription)Satrad (Sirius or XM) and HD Radio readySteering wheel control compatibility (optional, requires separate interface)DVD playbackSix-channel preamp outputs (front, rear, subwoofer)May need firmware update
Official Google Website Optimizer Blog: Share Your Success (and get a free t-shirt, book, and shout-out)

How A Sony Xplod Car Audio Can Enhance The Sound Quality Of Your Car


Sony Xplod car audio come with revolutionary features that are sure to amaze your curiosity. There are Sony Xplod car speakers, radio cassette, subwoofers and others to choose from. They come in a very high quality and you can trust them to serve you in the right way. Sony Xplod head units connect with digital music players like iPods making them very convenient. Many of this head units come with a memory called the gigastick. Speakers come with features like aluminum woofer cones, rubber surround, balanced dome drive tweeters and so many other features and you can get this information and more from the internet. Sony amplifiers will go a long way in ensuring that you get the quality sounds you need.

Sony Xplod car audio will therefore enhance your life and you can look for cheap products in the market. Reading through many reviews that were sent by users on a particular site, I read one that was very positive about the functions of the head units from Sony. If you do not know where you can get the products, search on the internet for a store near you or you can just shop online. Before you make the purchase, have no doubt about the store. Some of the things that a consumer should be aware of is the legality of the business and whether they have in stock the right Sony Xplod car audio.

The prices can be a bit high but, it is upon you to search for discounts and cheap prices. Very cheap prices will make eye brows rise because there must be the question on quality. You might be very happy because of throw away prices and forget about quality but, it is always good to buy value. Online stores always have offers and discounts and they are a good place to start. If you are upgrading your system, make sure that the car audio is compatible with the already existing systems. Have the right fits and avoid problems that may present themselves because of this. If you are not sure of any function, make use of store staff and manuals.

There are many manuals including installation manuals and getting them will be paramount to ensuring you install Sony Xplod car audio in the right way. Do not forget all the kits you need and from Sony, you can get wiring kits for amplifiers, power and ground cable, capacitors, fuse holders and many others. Read manuals carefully without rushing and if you need additional help, you can buy DVDs that instruct users step by step. There is no doubt that after you have taken such vital steps, you will have your systems well installed. You need to experience it for yourself to realize the extra ordinary sounds that will have you spend so much time in your car. The entertainment is superior and you can recommend the car audio to somebody else to ensure they get to experience pleasure in their cars. Write a review and express your feelings about the product.

Kicker WX10000.1 Warhorse

MSRP $9,999.99
With dimensions measuring 35 inches by 17 3/4 inches by 3 3/4 inches and a total weight of 66 pounds, the Warhorse is a monster of an amp. On the other hand, it's about the same size as amps with much lower power output, say, around 3,000 watts. That raises the question of whether it's efficient enough to actually make its claimed 10 kilowatts of power.

Before I get into it, let's look at what we're working with. Kicker has rated this beast at 10,000 watts into a 2-ohm load, or 5,000 watts into a 4-ohm load. As far as the class, it's not D, AB, or anything else you might be familiar with. In fact, the operation of this amp is so unique that Kicker has applied for a patent so they can classify it. I'll do my best to explain all that, but in the meantime study up on Class D operation and pulse width modulation as a reference point.

The amp has the usual features you'd expect to find in a big subwoofer amp like 24dB/octave highpass and lowpass crossovers, 0 to 18dB of bass boost at 40Hz, and the absence of fuses. In addition, the Warhorse sports three ought-gauge power and three ought-gauge ground cable connectors, and two pairs of 8-gauge Anderson connectors for the speaker outputs. No, it's not a stereo amp-strictly mono.

Eight indicator lights on the control panel reveal several conditions. PWR illuminates when the amp is on and working properly. NET shows that you're connected to the optional WXRC remote control, which offers expanded crossover slope selections in addition to being able to make adjustments from the driver seat. There are also LED indicators for over-voltage, under-voltage, overheated and short-circuit. The X-BNDW light tells you that you have set the lowpass crossover lower than the highpass crossover, while the Service light lets you know that you probably need to get the amp back to the Kicker service department or at least call the tech support line.

The unit looks like an oversized black briefcase with extruded fins running the length of each side. The top is an engraved black aluminum plate with a molded plastic hood over the entry for the power cables. The cast endcaps house the cooling fans and provide a very structural look to the whole unit. The power and ground-all six ought-gauge cables-come into the amp at almost the center of the top plate. All other connections and controls are hidden halfway along the nearside heat sink under a matching cover plate.

Circuitry
Looking under the cover, the first thing you'll notice is the four planar transformers and the huge buss bars that run across the topside of the main circuit board. The transformers are about the size of your hand and resemble a stack of pancakes. The primary and secondary windings are stacked on top of each other rather than being several strands of wire intertwined. The turn ratio is 19 to 1, meaning there are literally 19 turns of flat wound copper for each secondary and one turn for each primary. The primary looks more like a big horseshoe-shaped PCB trace. Each planar transformer is rated at 5,000 watts for a total capacity of 20,000 watts.

The positive and negative power cables feed the transformers directly by way of the plated copper buss bars. The B+ power supply is stabilized by a total of 50 3,300F/105 C capacitors. That makes for a lot of instant juice on tap.
The entire backside of the heat sink is occupied by 64 MOSFETs, 16 for each of the four transformers. Normally, I'd call these devices "switchers" to drive the transformers and create the positive and negative rails, but this is where we deviate substantially from every other amp. These MOSFETs do actually drive the transformers, but not at a steady rate to create a "reservoir" of output power. They actually drive the transformers directly to the speaker outputs in a pulse-width modulation fashion. This effectively eliminates the section of the amp that would normally be called the "output" section, and also eliminates the efficiency losses associated with output sections, whatever class they may be.

Let's look at the input section. The analog music signal from your head unit enters the amp by way of a pair of gold-plated RCA connectors, and goes pretty much straight to a Texas Instruments DSP chip. There's plenty of support circuitry around the DSP. In fact, the input board is about 6 inches by 8 inches, but all of the processing goes on inside the chip. The gain, crossover, bass boost, and limiter controls are all single element potentiometers that feed reference signals to the DSP chip. In other words, they have no direct effect on the analog signal; they just tell the processor what you want it to do. Once the analog signal enters the DSP, there's no more analog signal until you get to the output filter at the speaker outputs. Because the crossovers and bass boost are handled in the digital domain, the curves are picture perfect and very precise.

Here's where things get even stranger. In a typical amp you have an input stage, a power supply stage, and an output stage where the first two stages work together to kick out the tunes. The power supply runs at a constant rate, creating a "reservoir" of power (called "rails") that's fed to the speakers through the output transistors as the input section commands. In the Warhorse, there's an input stage as usual, but the output and power supply stages are combined. Instead of creating a reservoir of power for the output stage to use, the DSP causes the power supply to actually create the output signal directly. Instead of running at a constant level, the power supplies are constantly going up and down (signal modulated) in response to the DSP to create the output voltage. There are no output transistors.

That's the conceptual picture, pretty much devoid of the details. At this point you may be thinking, "That's too easy" or "Why hasn't this been done before?" While the concept is easy, the execution requires a fairly powerful DSP, as well as a fairly powerful brain trust to program the DSP. On this scale (remember this amp puts out 10,000 watts), it also requires the planar transformers with specific coupling and power characteristics.

The DSP is in complete control of the transformers, running a constant pulse of 24kHz. That doesn't mean the transformers are creating a large 24kHz output signal, but that's the clock speed for the pulse-width modulation. When a signal comes into the DSP, it sends off/on pulses to the transformer switchers of the appropriate duration to create both the frequency and the amplitude of the output. In a pulse width modulation format the length of the pulse will correspond to the output voltage level, and in this amp the length of the pulses will be limited to 1/24,000 of a second. A maximum pulse (100 percent) will result in maximum power output, while a half-length pulse (50 percent) results in half power. At idle, there's zero current going through the transformers, but it's still happening at 24kHz.

This is where the amp is like a Class D amp. If the transformer is completely accurate (not possible, by the way) the output will consist of really large squared waves. In reality, the transformer will round these square pulses considerably, plus there's an output filter consisting of a coil and capacitor(s) to finish converting the squared pulses to nice round sine waves. The output filter coils in the Warhorse actually look just like large transformers that would be used in the power supply of a big Class AB amp.

So you now have output signal to feed your speakers, and it should resemble the analog input signal that came into the DSP to start with. The DSP takes feedback from the speaker outputs and makes real-time adjustments to the pulses to create a more accurate reproduction of the original signal, only lots bigger.

There are two separate sets of speaker outputs on the Warhorse, but they're not parallel. You have to use both of them and you have to use them on a dual voice coil speaker, one output to each coil of the speaker. One set handles the positive side of the wave and the other handles the negative side. The + and - labels on the amp correspond to the labels on the speaker's voice coil terminals. At full power this amp is making around 141 volts between 20Hz and 200Hz. Household AC is 120 volts at 60Hz. If you fed the amp with a 60Hz signal, you could probably use it as a backup generator for your house, so don't mess around with the speaker outputs when this amp is on.

Performance
The amp tested as advertised in all respects. The frequency response is exactly 20Hz to 200Hz at the -3dB points, though we used +0/-1dB for the test results. The crossovers and bass boost are exact as well, which is a direct result of the signal being handled in the digital domain by the DSP chip. Power at 14.4-volt input exceeded 10 kilowatts by 350 watts-the equivalent of a decent subwoofer amp. While 10,000 watts is pretty impressive, the fact that the WX10000.1 can deliver it with almost 90 percent efficiency is amazing. Class AB amps hover around 50 percent, so this amp can deliver almost twice the output power for any given power input. You can feed two of these amps for the price of one.

There was no indication on the scope of any turn-on or turn-off noise. Who needs a 10,000-watt turn-on pop?

Slew rate and damping factor have been omitted from this test due to the way the amp works and the importance of such specs for an amp of this size. Testing was complicated by the fact that the DSP is instantly responding to the output feedback. The compensation by the DSP resulted in a negative ratio for the damping factor. The precision of the DSP also resulted in a very low slew rate at the output, which corresponded very closely to the actual slope of a wave at 200Hz. In other words, we were only able to measure what the DSP was causing the amp to do, rather than what it might be capable of.

Manual
The owner's manual is a pretty comprehensive affair. In fact, I suggest you read the manual before purchasing the amp, just to make sure you're equal to the commitment. The manual is where you learn about having to build an electrical substation to feed the beast. Yes, I'm exaggerating but seriously, Kicker recommends no less than eight batteries of 800cca plus two alternators putting out 200 amps each. That's in addition to the battery and alternator just to run the vehicle. As well, you have to run ought-gauge cable everywhere to boot.

Besides the electrical requirements, and the structural mounting bracket, the manual shows several wiring configurations, and explains the controls clearly. The warranty is three months (consumer installed) or two years when installed by an authorized dealer.

Conclusion
Kicker has managed to break new ground here, and do it in a big way. The Warhorse is expensive, but it's intended for use in decibel machines and show systems. The retail dollars-to-watts ratio is a pretty high 97 cents, but using this amp will reduce the overall cost of batteries and alternators due to its high efficiency. Check out the Kicker Warhorse van making appearances around the country if you want to experience what this kind of power is all about.


Test Results
Output power @ 1% THD, 50Hz, 14.4 volts
Mono @ 4 ohms 1 x 5,494 watts
Mono @ 2 ohms 1 x 10,350 watts
Output power @ 1% THD, 50Hz, 12.5 volts
Mono @ 4 ohms 1 x 4,050 watts
Mono @ 2 ohms 1 x 8,052 watts
Distortion at rated power, 50Hz, 14.4 volts 0.66% @ 2 ohms
Input sensitivity 165mV to 5.2 volts
Frequency response (+1dB) 25Hz - 170Hz
S/N ratio (A weighted, below clipping, min. gain) >82dB
Idle current 3.5 amps
Maximum current consumption, unclipped 801 amps @ 10,350 watts
Efficiency at one-third power, lowest impedance 88%
Efficiency at full power, 1%THD, lowest impedance 89.7%
Crossover slope 24dB/octave
Crossover range, lowpass 50Hz - 200Hz
Crossover range, highpass 20Hz - 60Hz
Low-frequency boost +18dB @ 40Hz
Dimensions 35"L x 17.75"W x 3.75"H
Weight 66.8 pounds
top